Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Starting System: Testing and Inspection

Starter Circuit Troubleshooting

NOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 °and 100 °F (15 ° and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this inspection, you must select power-train control module (PCM) reset using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) otherwise PCM continues to stop the fuel injectors.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

Recommended Procedure:
- Use a starter system tester.
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Alternate Procedure




1. Hook up the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)

2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC).
3. Select PGM-FI, select inspection, then select the ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS.
4. With the shift lever in Park or Neutral, turn the ignition switch to START (III).

Did the starter crank the engine normally?

YES - The starting system is OK. Select PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF function, then perform the PCM idle learn procedure.

NO - Go to step 5.

5. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, battery negative cable connected to the body, engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again.

Did the starter crank the engine?

YES - Repairing the loose connection fixed the problem. The starting system is now OK.

NO - If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 6. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 9. If it won't disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key, check for the following until you find the cause.

- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch.




6. Make sure the transmission is in Park or Neutral, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter solenoid (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.

Did the starter crank the engine?

YES - Go to step 7.

NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.

7. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit.
- Check the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- Check the ignition switch.
- Check the transmission range switch and connector.
- Substitute a known-good starter relay.

8. Check the cranking voltage and current draw.

Is cranking voltage greater than or equal to 7.7 V and current draw less than or equal to 400 A?

YES - Go to step 9.

NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause.

- Starter armature dragging
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in engine

9. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine

Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?

YES - Go to step 10.

NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause.

- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch

10. Select PCM reset to stop the ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS.
11. Do the PCM idle learn procedure.
12. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear, idler gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.