Starter Test

STARTER TEST

NOTE: The air temperature must be between 59 and 100 ° F (15 and 38° C) before testing.


Recommended Procedure
- Use a starter system tester.
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
- Test and troubleshoot as described.


Alternate Procedure
- Use the following equipment:
+ Ammeter, 0-400 A
+ Voltmeter, 0-20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
+ Tachometer, 0-1200 rpm







- Hook up voltmeter and ammeter as shown.

NOTE: After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the ECM to clear any codes.


Check Starter Engagement
1. Remove the No. 31 (15 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
2. Press the clutch pedal all the way in (M/T), and turn the ignition switch to "Start". The starter should crank the engine.

NOTE: On cars equipped with manual transmission, the engine will not crank unless the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

If the starter does not crank the engine, go to step 3.

3. Check the battery, battery positive cable, ground, and the wire connections for looseness and corrosion.

Test again. If the starter still does not crank the engine, go to step 4.







4. Bypass the ignition switch circuit as follows (make sure the transmission is in neutral):
Unplug the connector (BLK/WHT wire and solenoid terminal) from the starter. Then connect a jumper wire from the battery positive (+) terminal to the solenoid terminal. The starter should crank the engine.
- If the starter still does not crank the engine, replace it and diagnose its internal problems.
- If the starter cranks the engine, go to step 5.

5. Check for an open in the BLK/WHT wire circuit between the starter and ignition switch, and connectors.
6. Check the ignition switch Testing and Inspection.
7. On cars with automatic transmission, check the A/T gear position switch (neutral position switch) and connector. On cars with manual transmission, check the starter cut relay, clutch interlock switch, and connectors.

NOTE: Check the No. 39 (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box for the starter cut relay.

Check for Wear and Damage
The starter should crank the engine smoothly and steadily. If the starter engages, but cranks the engine erratically, remove it.

Inspect the starter, drive gear, and flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage.

Check the drive gear overrunning clutch for binding or slipping when the armature is rotated with the drive gear held. Replace the gears if damaged.

Check Cranking Voltage and Current Draw
Cranking voltage should be no less than 8.0 volts.

Current draw should be no more than * amperes.
* 1.2 kW: 270 A
* 1.4 kW: 360 A

If cranking voltage is too low, or current draw too high, check for:
- Dead or low charged battery.
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments.
- Starter armature dragging.
- Shorted armature winding.
- Excessive drag in engine.

Check Cranking rpm
Engine speed during cranking should be above 100 rpm.

If speed is too low, check for:
- Loose battery or starter terminal.
- Excessively worn starter brushes.
- Open circuit in commutator segments.
- Dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear.
- Defective drive gear overrunning clutch.

Check Starter Disengagement
Press the clutch pedal all the way in (M/T), turn the ignition switch to "III" and release to "II".

The starter drive gear should disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key.

If the drive gear hangs up on the flywheel or torque converter ring gear, check for:
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction.
- Dirty drive gear assembly or damaged overrunning clutch.