Part 2
SECONDARY SHAFT IDLER GEARBearing Replacement
NOTE: Check the bearing for wear, damage, and rough movement. If the bearing is worn or damaged, replace it.
1. Place the secondary shaft idler gear in a vise with soft jaws.
2. Remove the bearing from the secondary shaft idler gear with a bearing puller.
3. Install the new bearing on the secondary shaft idler gear with the special tool and a press.
CLUTCH
Illustrated Index
1st/2nd Clutch
NOTE: The '98 - '99 model has two types of spring retainers, you may find either type in the clutch assembly. Some spring retainer have seal lips, and do not have O-rings. The seal lip is undetachable from the spring retainer.
3rd/4th Clutch
Disassembly
1. Remove the snap ring, then remove the clutch end plate, clutch discs, and plates.
2. Remove the disc spring from the 1st, 3rd, and 4th clutches.
NOTE: The 2nd clutch does not have a disc spring.
3. Install the special tools on the clutch assembly.
4. Be sure the special tool is adjusted to have full contact with the spring retainer on the 3rd and 4th clutches.
5. Set the special tool on the spring retainer of the 1st and 2nd clutches in such a way that the special tool works on the clutch return spring.
6. If either end of the special tool is set over an area of the spring retainer which is unsupported by the return spring, the retainer may be damaged.
7. Compress the spring until the snap ring can be removed.
8. Remove the snap ring. Then remove the special tools, spring retainer, and return spring.
9. For 3rd and 4th clutch: Wrap a shop rag around the clutch drum, and apply air pressure to the fluid passage to remove the piston. Place a finger tip on the other end while applying air pressure.
Reassembly
NOTE:
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry with compressed air.
- Blow out all passages.
- Lubricate all parts with Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) before assembly.
1. Inspect the check valve on the 3rd and 4th clutch pistons; if it's loose, replace the piston.
2. Install new O-rings on the piston and the spring retainer (1st and 2nd clutches).
NOTE: Some spring retainer of the 1st and 2nd clutch of the '98 - '99 model have seal lips, and do not have O-rings.
3. Install the piston in the clutch drum. Apply pressure and rotate to ensure proper seating. Lubricate the piston O-ring with ATF before installing.
NOTE: Do not pinch the O-ring by installing the piston with too much force.
4. Install the return spring and spring retainer, and position the snap ring on the retainer.
5. Install the special tools on the clutch assembly.
6. Be sure the special tool is adjusted to have full contact with the spring retainer on the 3rd and 4th clutches.
7. Set the special tool on the spring retainer of the 1st and 2nd clutches in such a way that the special tool works on the clutch return spring.
8. If either end of the special tool is set over an area of the spring retainer which is unsupported by the return spring, the retainer may be damaged.
9. Compress the return spring with the special tools.
10. Install the snap ring.
11. Remove the special tools.
12. Install the disc spring in the 1st, 3rd, and 4th clutches in the direction shown.
NOTE: The 2nd clutch does not have a disc spring.
13. Soak the clutch discs thoroughly in ATF for a minimum of 30 minutes. Before installing the plates and discs, make sure the inside of the clutch drum is free of dirt and other foreign matter.
14. Starting with a clutch plate, alternately install the clutch plates and discs. Install the clutch end plate with the flat side toward the disc.
15. Install the snap ring with a screwdriver.
16. Measure the clearance between the clutch end plate and top disc with a dial indicator. Zero the dial indicator with the clutch end plate lowered, and lift it up to the snap ring. The distance that the clutch end plate moves is the clearance between the clutch end plate and top disc.
NOTE: Take measurements in at least three places, and use the average as the actual clearance.
Clutch End Plate-to-Top Disc Clearance:
17. If the clearance is not within the service limit, select a new clutch end plate from the table as shown.
NOTE: If the thickest clutch end plate is installed, but the clearance is still over the standard, replace the clutch discs and clutch plates as a set.
DIFFERENTIAL
Components
If the transmission housing, torque converter housing, or any parts marked with an asterisk (*) were replaced, the tapered roller bearing preload must be adjusted.
Backlash Inspection
1. Place the differential assembly on V-blocks, and install both axles.
2. Check the backlash of both pinion gears with a dial indicator.
STANDARD: 0.05 - 0.15 mm (0.002 - 0.006 inch)
3. If the backlash is out of standard, replace the differential carrier.
Differential Carrier Replacement
1. Remove the final driven gear from the differential carrier.
NOTE: The final driven gear bolts have left-hand threads.
2. Install the final driven gear with the chamfered side on the inner bore facing the differential carrier.
3. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in a criss-cross pattern.
TORQUE: 101 Nm (10.3 kgf.m, 74.5 ft. lbs.)
Bearing Replacement
NOTE: Check the bearing for wear and rough rotation. If the bearing is OK, removal is not necessary.
1. Remove the tapered roller bearing with a bearing puller, a bearing separator, and a stepper adapter.
2. Install the new tapered roller bearings with the special tool and a press.
NOTE:
- Press the bearings on until they bottom.
- Use the small end of the special tool to install the bearing.
NOTE:
- The bearing and outer race should be replaced as a set.
- Inspect and adjust the bearing preload whenever a bearing is replaced.
- Press the bearings on securely so there is no clearance between the bearings and the differential carrier.
Tapered Roller Bearing Preload Adjustment
NOTE: If the transmission housing, torque converter housing, differential carrier, tapered roller bearing, outer race, or thrust shim were replaced, the bearing preload must be adjusted.
1. Remove the bearing outer race, thrust washer and thrust shim from the transmission housing by heating the housing to about 212°F (100°C) with a heat gun. Do not heat the housing in excess of 212°F (100°C).
NOTE: Let the transmission housing cool to room temperature before adjusting the bearing preload.
2. Replace the tapered roller bearing when the outer race is to be replaced.
3. Do not use a shim on the torque converter housing side.
4. Select the 2.60 mm (0.102 inch) thrust shim from the middle of the table as shown.
THRUST SHIM, 76 mm
5. Install the thrust shim, thrust washer and bearing outer race in the transmission housing.
6. Drive the outer race with the special tools, and install it securely in the transmission housing.
7. Check that there is no clearance between the thrust washer, outer race, shim and transmission housing.
8. Install the differential assembly, gasket, and dowel pins on the torque converter housing. Align the spring pin on the control shaft with the transmission housing groove.
9. Install the transmission housing with the transmission hangers and harness clamp bracket, and tighten the bolts.
10. Rotate the differential assembly in both directions to seat the bearings.
11. Measure the starting torque of the differential assembly with the special tools and a torque wrench. Measure the starting torque at normal room temperature in both directions.
STANDARD:
New bearing: 2.7 - 3.9 Nm (28 - 40 kgf.cm, 24 - 35 inch lbs.)
Reused bearings: 2.5 - 3.6 Nm (25 - 37 kgf.cm, 22 - 32 inch lbs.)
12. To increase the starting torque, increase the thickness of the shim. To decrease the starting torque, decrease the thickness of the shim. Changing the shim to the next size will increase or decrease starting torque about 0.3 - 0.4 Nm (3 - 4 kgf.cm, 3 - 3 inch lbs.).
Tapered Roller Bearing Outer Race Replacement
NOTE:
- Replace the bearing with a new one whenever the outer race is to be replaced.
- Do not use shim(s) on the torque converter housing side.
- Adjust preload after replacing the bearing and outer race.
- Coat all parts with Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) during installation.
1. Remove the bearing outer race from the transmission housing by heating the housing to about 212°F (100°C) with a heat gun.
2. Remove the bearing outer race from the torque converter housing.
3. Install the thrust shim, thrust washer and outer race in the transmission housing with the special tools.
4. Install the outer race in the torque converter housing, and be sure to install the outer race until it bottoms in the housing with the special tools.
Oil Seal Removal
1. Remove the oil seal from the transmission housing.
2. Remove the oil seal from the torque converter housing.
3. Install the oil seal in the transmission housing with the special tools.
4. Install the oil seal in the torque converter housing with the special tools.
TORQUE CONVERTER HOUSING BEARINGS
Mainshaft Bearing/Oil Seal Replacement
1. Remove the mainshaft bearing and oil seal with the special tool.
2. Install the new mainshaft bearing until it bottoms in the housing with the special tools.
3. Install the new oil seal flush with the housing with the special tools.
Countershaft Bearing Replacement
1. Remove the countershaft bearing with the special tool.
2. Install the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) guide plate.
3. Install the new bearing into the housing with the special tools.
Secondary Shaft Bearing Replacement
1. Remove the secondary shaft bearing with the special tool.
2. Install the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) guide plate.
3. Install the new bearing into the housing with the special tools.