Antitheft and Alarm Systems: Testing and Inspection

Troubleshooting

Before troubleshooting the immobilizer system, troubleshoot any ECM/PCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), and make sure the ECM/PCM has no malfunction.

Note these items before troubleshooting:
- Due to the action of the immobilizer system, the engine takes slightly more time to start than on a vehicle without an immobilizer system.
- When the system is normal, and the proper key is inserted, the indicator light comes on for 2 seconds, then it will go off.
- If the indicator starts to blink after 2 seconds, or if the engine does not start, remove any other immobilizer keys or large key fobs on the key ring, then repeat the starting procedure.
If the engine still does not start, continue with this procedure.

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) with proper key.
2. Check to see if the immobilizer indicator light comes on.

Does the indicator light blink?

YES - Disconnect the 7P connector from the immobilizer control unit-receiver, then go to step 9.

NO - Check for these problems, then go to step 3.

- Blown No.9 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
- An open in the wire between the gauge assembly and the immobilizer control unit-receiver.
- A faulty immobilizer indicator light.
- An open in the wire between the gauge assembly and the under-hood fuse/relay box.

3. Remove the dashboard lower cover.
4. Remove the steering column lower cover.




5. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the immobilizer control unit-receiver (B).
6. Check for voltage between the immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector No.7 terminal and body ground.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 7.

NO - Check for these problems:

- Blown No.9 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/ relay box.
- An open in the WHT/RED wire.

7. Check for voltage between the immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector No.6 terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON (II).

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 8.

NO - Check for these problems:

- Blown No.6 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
- Faulty PGM-FI main relay 1.
- An open in the YEL/BLK wire.

8. Check for voltage between the immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector No.6 terminal and No.1 terminal.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 9.

NO - Check for these problems:

- Open on the BRN/YEL wire.
- Faulty ECM/PCM.

9. Check for continuity between the immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector No.2 terminal and ECM/PCM terminal E27.

Is there continuity?

YES - Go to step 10.

NO - Repair the open in the RED/BLU wire.

10. Reconnect the 7P connector to the immobilizer control unit-receiver.
11. Check for voltage between the immobilizer control-unit receiver 7P connector No.4 terminal and body ground with the parking brake lever pulled, then released.

Is there 1 V or less, then 5 V or more?

YES - Replace the immobilizer control unit-receiver.

After replacing the immobilizer control unit- receiver, rewrite the unit with a Honda PGM Tester.

NO - Check for these problems:

- Faulty parking brake switch or a poor body ground of the parking brake switch.
- Repair open in the GRN/ORN wire.