Starting System: Testing and Inspection
Starter Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 ° and 100 °F (15 ° and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to clear any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).
Recommended Procedure:
- Use a starter system tester.
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Alternate Procedure
1. Hook up the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
- Tachometer, 0 - 1200 rpm
2. Remove the No.17 (15 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box.
3. With the shift lever in [N] or [P] (A/T) or clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to start (III).
Did the starter crank the engine normally?
YES- The starting system is OK.
NO - If Starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 4. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 7. If it won't disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, check for the following until you find the cause.
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
4. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - The starting system is OK.
NO - Go to step 5.
5. Make sure the transmission is in neutral, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter solenoid (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Remove the starter, and diagnose its internal problems.
6. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit.
- Check the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- Check the ignition switch.
- Check the transmission range switch and connector (A/T) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T).
- Check the starter cut relay.
7. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.
Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause.
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
8. Check the cranking voltage and current draw.
Is cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V (K20A3 engine)/8.7 V (K20A2 engine) and current draw less than or equal to 350 A (K20A3 engine)/ 230 A (K20A2 engine)?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause.
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Starter armature dragging
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in engine
9. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.