Drivetrain - Rattling/Pinging/Squealing on Light Accel.
07-026October 30, 2007
Applies To:
See VEHICLES AFFECTED
Pinging, Rattling, or Squealing During Light Acceleration
SYMPTOM
While driving under light acceleration, you hear an intermittent pinging, rattling, or squealing from the engine compartment. The noise can easily be mistaken for an engine ping or a spark knock. In some cases, the noise happens only during engine warm-up.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The intermediate shaft heat shield is loose in its mounting bushings.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the intermediate shaft heat shield and any specified nuts or gaskets.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Acura ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid (Up to three quarts may be needed):
RL only - P/N 08200-00-9001A
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty:
The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 2191N6
Flat Rate Time: MDX - 1.6 hours
RL - 1.2hours
RSX - 0.5 hour
TL - 1.1 hours
Failed Part: P/N 44517-SDB-A00
Defect Code: 07405
Symptom Code: 04216
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty:
Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE:
If you're viewing this service bulletin on ISIS and you're connected to speakers, click on the image below to hear an example of how the noise may sound and see its rpm levels.
1. Drive the vehicle at low speeds (25 mph or less) under light throttle.
NOTE:
To reproduce the noise on an RSX, the engine speed should be between 3,000-4,500 rpm.
^ If you hear a ping, rattle, or squeal, go to step 3.
^ If you do not hear a ping, rattle, or squeal, go to step 2.
2. While driving the vehicle and applying the throttle, lightly press the brake pedal for a short time.
^ If you hear a ping, rattle, or squeal, go to step 3.
^ If you do not hear a ping, rattle, or squeal, this service bulletin does not apply. Ask the client more questions to determine the cause of the problem and how to repair it.
3. Based on the model, go to the appropriate repair procedure:
^ For RSX, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: RSX.
^ For TL, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: TL.
^ For RL, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C: RL.
^ For MDX, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE D: MDX.
REPAIR PROCEDURE A: RSX
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.
2. Remove the intermediate shaft heat shield (three bolts).
3. Install a new heat shield with the original bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft).
REPAIR PROCEDURE B: TL
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.
2. Remove the engine under cover (two bolts, four clips).
3. Remove exhaust pipe A:
^ Remove the three nuts that attach exhaust pipe A to each warm-up catalytic converter (six nuts total).
^ Disconnect exhaust pipe A from its rubber hanger.
^ Remove the three nuts that attach exhaust pipe A to the TWC.
4. Remove the exhaust pipe bracket (two bolts).
5. Remove the intermediate shaft heat shield (three bolts).
6. Install a new intermediate shaft heat shield with the original bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb.ft).
7. Reinstall the exhaust pipe bracket, and torque its bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb.ft).
8. Reattach exhaust pipe A to the warm-up catalytic converters with two new front gaskets and six new nuts. Torque the nuts to 54 N.m (40 lb.ft).
9. Reattach exhaust pipe A to the TWC with a new rear gasket and three new nuts. Torque the nuts to 33 N.m (25 lb.ft).
10. Reconnect exhaust pipe A to its rubber hanger.
11. Reinstall the engine under cover.
REPAIR PROCEDURE C: RL
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.
2. Remove exhaust pipe A:
^ Remove the three nuts that attach exhaust pipe A to each warm-up catalytic converter (six nuts total).
^ Disconnect exhaust pipe A from its rubber hanger.
^ Remove the three nuts that attach exhaust pipe A to the TWC.
3. Make a reference mark across the propeller shaft and the transfer companion shaft, then separate the shafts (four nuts).
4. Remove the bolt from the transfer assembly breather tube bracket, then disconnect the breather tube from the breather pipe.
5. Remove the transfer assembly (seven bolts) and its dowel pin from the transmission.
NOTE:
Up to three quarts of ATF will leak out when you remove the transfer assembly.
6. Remove the three bolts attaching the intermediate shaft heat shield to the intermediate shaft.
7. Remove the exhaust pipe bracket (two bolts).
8. Remove the heat shield by sliding it toward the transmission and then rotating it.
9. Install a new heat shield by rotating it and then sliding it away from the transmission.
10. Reinstall the exhaust pipe bracket, and torque its bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb.ft).
11. Reinstall the original heat shield bolts, and torque them to 22 N.m (16 lb.ft).
12. With its dowel pin installed on the transmission, reinstall the transfer assembly and torque its bolts to 51 N.m (38 lb.ft).
13. Reconnect the breather tube to the breather pipe on the transfer assembly. Torque the breather tube bracket bolt to 12 N.m (8.7 lb.ft).
14. Reattach the propeller shaft to the transfer companion flange, and align the marks you made in step 3. Torque the four nuts to 74 N.m (54 lb.ft).
15. Reattach exhaust pipe A to the warm-up catalytic converters with two new front gaskets and six new nuts. Torque the nuts to 54 N.m (40 lb.ft).
16. Reattach exhaust pipe A to the TWC with a new rear gasket and three new nuts. Torque the nuts to 33 N.m (25 lb.ft).
17. Reconnect exhaust pipe A to its rubber hanger.
18. Check the ATF level, and refill as needed using Acura ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid.
REPAIR PROCEDURE D: MDX
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.
2. Remove the right front wheel.
3. Unstake the spindle nut, then remove it.
4. On the right damper assembly, make a reference mark around each damper bolt. This allows you to retain the camber setting when you install new bolts.
5. Remove the damper bolts and nuts from the right damper assembly. The bolts and nuts will not be reused.
NOTE:
You don't need to separate the knuckle from the lower arm.
6. Pull the knuckle outward, separating it from the damper assembly, then release the right driveshaft from the wheel hub by tapping the end of the driveshaft with a plastic hammer.
7. Remove the right driveshaft.
8. Remove exhaust pipe A:
^ Remove the three nuts that attach exhaust pipe A to each warm-up catalytic converter (six nuts total).
^ Disconnect exhaust pipe A from its rubber hanger.
^ Remove the three nuts that attach exhaust pipe A to the TWC.
9. Remove the three bolts from the intermediate shaft heat shield.
10. Remove the intermediate shaft bolts (one flange bolt and two dowel bolts).
11. Remove the exhaust pipe bracket (two bolts).
12. With its heat shield attached, carefully slide the intermediate shaft out of the differential.
13. Remove the heat shield from the intermediate shaft, and place a new one on the shaft.
14. Carefully slide the end of the intermediate shaft back into the differential, making sure not to damage the differential oil seal.
15. Reinstall the exhaust pipe bracket, and torque its bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb.ft).
16. Reinstall the intermediate shaft bolts, and torque them to 39 N.m (29 lb.ft).
17. Reinstall the intermediate shaft heat shield bolts, and torque them to 22 N.m (16 lb.ft).
18. Reattach exhaust pipe A to the warm-up catalytic converters with two new front gaskets and six new nuts. Torque the nuts to 54 N.m (40 lb.ft).
19. Reattach exhaust pipe A to the TWC with a new rear gasket and three new nuts. Torque the nuts to 33 N.m (25 lb.ft).
20. Reconnect exhaust pipe A to its rubber hanger.
21. Slide the inboard end of the driveshaft into the intermediate shaft until the driveshaft set ring locks in place. Slide the outboard end of the driveshaft into the wheel hub.
22. Reattach the knuckle to the damper assembly, then install new damper bolts and nuts. Make sure the reference marks you made on the damper assembly line up with the bolts. Torque the damper nuts to 157 N.m (116 lb-ft).
23. Apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of a new spindle nut.
24. Install the new spindle nut, and torque it to 285 N.m (210 lb-ft). After torquing the nut, stake its shoulder to the end of the driveshaft with a drift.
25. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the right front wheel, then reinstall the wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to 108 N.m (80 lb.ft).
26. Turn the right front wheel by hand while checking for interference between the driveshaft and any parts. If you find interference, recheck your work.
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