Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 ° F (15 and 38 ° C) during this procedure.
- After the inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
1. Remove the left side engine compartment cover.
2. Hook up this equipment:
3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC).
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit.
6. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
7. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in the N or P position (A/T) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 13.
NO - Go to step 8.
8. Check the battery condition. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 13.
NO - Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action:
- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 9.
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 10.
- If the starter will not disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Starter solenoid and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
9. Make sure the shift lever is in the N or P position (A/T) or neutral (M/T), then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES - Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:
- M/T model: The BLK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and the ignition switch
- M/T model: The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and the starter
- A/T model: The WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and the under-hood fuse/relay box
- A/T model: The BLU wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2
- A/T model: The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 2 and the starter
- The ignition switch
- The transmission range switch and connector (A/T) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T).
- The starter cut relays
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
10. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and the current draw.
Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V (M/T)/7.7 V (A/T) and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A (M/T)/400 A (A/T)?
YES - Go to step 11.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems:
- Drag in the starter armature
- Short in the armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
11. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.
Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?
YES - Go to step 12.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems:
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in the starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
12. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
13. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
14. Reinstall the left side engine compartment cover.