Component Tests and General Diagnostics

Starter Circuit Troubleshooting

NOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 °F (15 and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After the inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the ECM/PCM, will continue to stop the fuel injectors from functioning.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.




1. Hook up the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)

2. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC).
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4. '07 model: Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and ECM/PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit.
5. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
6. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in the N or P position (A/T), or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to START (III).

Does the starter crank the engine normally?

YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 13.

NO - Go to step 7.

7. Check the battery condition. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.

Does the starter crank the engine?

YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 13.

NO - Check the following:

- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, Go to step 8.
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, Go to step 10.
- If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch




8. Make sure the shift lever is in the N or P position (A/T), or neutral (M/T), then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire from the starter solenoid S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid S terminal.

Does the starter crank the engine?

YES-Go to step 9.

NO-Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.

9. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:
- The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- The ignition switch.
- The transmission range switch and connector (A/T) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T).
- The starter cut relay.

10. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and current draw.

Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A?

YES - Go to step 11.

NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Drag in the starter armature
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine

11. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.

Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?

YES - Go to step 12.

NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the problem:
- Open circuit in the starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in the starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch

12. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
13. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS.