Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Starter System Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 °F (15 and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from functioning.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
1. Remove the battery trim.
2. Hook up the following equipment:
3. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC).
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
5. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in the N or P position, turn the ignition switch to START (III).
Did the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 12.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Check the battery condition. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 12.
NO - Check these items:
- If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 7.
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 9.
- If the starter does not disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter or remove it, and check for the following:
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
7. Make sure the shift lever is in the N or P position, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire from the starter solenoid S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Remove the starter, and repair or replace it as necessary.
8. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit:
NOTE: After the open circuit or high resistance in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 12.
- The WHT wire and connectors between the auxiliary under-dash relay holder and the under-hood fuse/relay box.
- The RED wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the auxiliary under-dash relay holder.
- The RED wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
- The ignition switch.
- The transmission range switch and connector.
- Starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2.
9. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and the current draw.
Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 7.7 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 400 A?
YES - Go to step 10.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
- Drag in the starter armature
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
10. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine.
Is the engine speed above 100 rpm?
YES - Go to step 11.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check the following until you find the problem:
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in the starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
11. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
12. Select PCM reset to cancel ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
13. Reinstall the battery trim.