Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting (Without Keyless Access System)
Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting
Special Tools Required
- Alternator, Regulator, Battery, and Starter Tester OTC3131
*Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857.
Without Keyless Access System
NOTE:
- Air temperature must be within 59-100 °F (15-38 °C) during this procedure.
- After the inspection, you must reset the PCM. Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
1. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown.
NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
2. Do the BATTERY TEST.
Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE?
YES -
The battery is OK. Charge the battery if necessary, then go to step 3.
NO -
If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the display indicates CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit PCM Power and Ground Circuit Troubleshooting.
6. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.
7. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in P or N, turn the ignition switch to START (III) to crank the engine.
NOTE: The auto-start function cranks the engine until it starts, or for 15 seconds if the engine does not start.
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES -
The starting system is OK. Go to step 15.
NO -
Go to step 8.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
9. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.
Does the starter crank the engine normally?
YES -
Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 15.
NO -
Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action:�
- If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 10.
- If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 12.
- If the starter does not disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key after 15 seconds, replace the starter Removal and Replacement, or remove and disassemble it Overhaul, and check for the following:
- Starter solenoid and switch malfunction.
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch.
- Damaged torque converter ring gear.
10. Make sure the shift lever is in P or N, then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal.
Does the starter crank the engine?
YES -
Go to step 11.
NO -
Replace the starter Removal and Replacement, or remove and disassemble it Overhaul, as necessary.�
11. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit:
NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 15.
- A blown STS (7.5 A) fuse in the auxiliary under-dash fuse holder located below the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
- A blown No. 8 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
- Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1, the ignition switch, and the under-hood fuse/relay box.
- Check for an open or short in the BLK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and the PCM.
- Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2.
- Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between starter cut relay 2 and the starter.
- Check for an open or short in the YEL wire, LT GRN wire, and connectors between the ignition switch and the PCM.
- Check for an open or short in the YEL wire and connectors between the PCM, starter cut relay 1, and starter cut relay 2.
- Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2.
- Check for an open or short in the PNK wire, BLU/WHT wire, and connectors between starter cut relay 1, starter cut relay 2, and the transmission range switch.
- Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground G101.
- Check for a faulty ignition switch Ignition Switch Test.
- Check for a faulty transmission range switch Transmission Range Switch Test.
- Check for a faulty starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2 Testing and Inspection.
12. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester to the battery.
NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.
13. Do the STARTING TEST.
Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.0 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 375 A?
YES -
Go to step 14.
NO -
Replace the starter Removal and Replacement, or remove and disassemble it Overhaul, and check for these problems:�
- Drag in the starter armature
- Short in the armature winding
- Excessive drag in the engine
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in the starter brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty overrunning clutch
14. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
15. Select PCM reset in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.