Radiator Fan High Speed Circuit Troubleshooting
Radiator Fan High Speed Circuit Troubleshooting
NOTE: Information marked with an asterisk (*1) applies to without SH-AWD and (*2) applies to with SH-AWD.
1. Check the No. 3-5 (30 A) (*1 ), (40 A) (*2 ) fuse, the No. 14 (15 A) fuse, and the No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 16(7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
Are the fuse(s) OK?
YES -
Reinstall the fuses, then go to step 2.
NO -
Replace the fuse(s) and recheck. If the fuse(s) blow again, repair the short to ground on the No. 3-5 (30A) (*1), (40 A) (*2) fuse, the No. 14 (15A) fuse, the No. 21 (7.5A) fuse, and the No. 16 (7.5A) fuse circuit.
2. Disconnect and remove the relay circuit board from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it Testing and Inspection.
Is the relay circuit board OK?
YES -
Go to step 3.
NO -
Replace the relay circuit board Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation.
3. Measure the voltage between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal C3 and body ground.
Is there battery voltage?
YES -
Go to step 4.
NO -
Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation.
4. Connect under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminals C1 and C3 with a jumper wire.
Does the radiator fan run at high speed?
YES -
Go to step 8.
NO -
Go to step 5.
5. Disconnect the radiator fan motor 2P connector, then test the fan motor Testing and Inspection.
Is the fan motor OK?
YES -
Go to step 6.
NO -
Replace the radiator fan motor Radiator And A/C Condenser Fan, Motor, And Shroud Removal And Installation.
6. Check for continuity between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal C1 and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.
Is there continuity?
YES -
Go to step 7.
NO -
Repair an open in the wire between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal C1 and radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.
7. Check for continuity between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES -
Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the radiator fan motor and body ground G302.
NO -
Repair an open in the wire between radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.
8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
9. Measure the voltage between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B8 and body ground.
Is there battery voltage?
YES -
Go to step 10.
NO -
Repair an open in the wire between driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector terminal F26 and under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B8.
10. Measure the voltage between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B9 and body ground.
Is there battery voltage?
YES -
Go to step 11.
NO -
Check the PGM-FI subrelay. If the relay is OK, replace the under-hood fuse/relay box Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box Removal and Installation.
11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
12. Connect the HDS to the DLC.
13. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
14. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit Testing and Inspection.
15. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
16. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (49P).
17. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A5 and under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B10.
Is there continuity?
YES -
Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software ECM/PCM Update, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM Service and Repair.
NO -
Repair an open in the wire between under-hood fuse/relay box connector terminal B10 and ECM/PCM connector terminal A5.