Front

Front suspension strut, repairing

1. Cover

2. Bump stop
Note various types

3. Threaded cap with cover cap 240 Nm (177 ft lb)
Removing and installing - Fig. 6

4. Shock absorber shaft
When loosening or tightening, hold mounting nut with hex wrench

5. Shock absorber
S4/S6 models equipped with gas-filled shock absorbers
Can be replaced individually
Before disposing of removed gas-filled shock absorbers release gas pressure
Before replacing, note vehicle data plate to determine shock absorber type
Imprint on data plate indicates:
1RA = standard version;
1BE = sports version

Note: Vehicles with sports suspension are equipped with gas-filled shock absorbers.

Checking conventional shock absorbers (removed)

- Hold shock absorber upright.
- Check operation by extending and compressing by hand.

Resistance must be even and smooth over entire stroke
Shock absorbers that have been stored for a long period of time may need to be pumped several times.
Faulty shock absorbers make thumping noises while driving.
If shock absorbers are working properly, slight traces of oil on shock absorber do not necessarily mean it must be replaced. Too much oil lost will result in a 'flat spot" during extension and compression.

Checking gas-filled shock absorbers (removed)

- Compress shock absorber by hand.
Resistance must be even and smooth over entire stroke

- Release shock absorber shaft.

If gas pressure in the shock absorber is adequate, piston rod will return by itself to the starting position.
If not, the shock absorbers do not necessarily need to be replaced. Unless there has been a significant loss of oil, a gas-filled shock absorber will continue to perform in the same way as a conventional shock absorber.

6. Wheel bearing housing
Make sure slot in wheel bearing housing is not pried open or enlarged when pressing out control arm ball joint
S4/S6 models have three-point brake caliper mounting

7. Wheel bearing
Inner diameter has shoulder
Pressing out - Fig. 3
Pressing in - Fig. 5
Installation position: large inner diameter faces toward wheel hub

8. Wheel hub
Version with shoulder
Pressing out - Fig. 1
Pressing in - Fig. 2
Removing inner bearing race - Fig. 4
Modified version for S4/S6

9. Self-locking nut
Always replace
45 Nm (33 ft lb) plus additional 1/4-turn (90°)

10. Self-locking nut 60 Nm (144 ft lb)
Always replace
Tighten with torque wrench - Fig. 7

11. Stop washer

12. Strut bearing
Mark installation position

13. Bearing plate
14. Axial bearing
15. Spring retainer
16. Protective ring

17. Boot
Lower end installed on threaded cap, upper end on spring retainer

18. Damping ring
Install in spring retainer
Note different thicknesses; Thickness can be seen on underside from number of knobs (1-3)

19. Coil spring
Can be replaced individually
Before installing check vehicle data plate to determine spring type
Imprint on data plate indicates:
1BA = standard version
1BE = sports version
Installation: color identification on spring points down toward shock absorber housing

Fig. 1 Pressing out wheel hub:

Fig. 2 Pressing in wheel hub:

Note: When pressing in wheel hub, tool WV 455 must support only the inner bearing race.

Fig. 3 Pressing out wheel bearing:

Note: Use only a tensioning type puller.

Fig. 5 Installing wheel bearing:

Press in up to stop.

Note:
Large inner diameter of wheel bearing points toward wheel hub.
Do not lubricate wheel bearing housing before pressing the wheel bearing in.
The chamfered side of special tool 3144 points toward special tool VW204 B.

Fig. 6 Threaded cap, removing and installing:

- Thread on and off using special tool 2069

Fig. 7 Tightening top nut with torque wrench:

- Self-locking nut.
- Always replace.

Fig. 8 Modified wheel hub for S4/S6 models:

a - Previous production level
b - Modified version
c - Difference between previous production level and modified version is 16 mm (0.63 in)