Subframe, Removing And Installing
Subframe, Removing And Installing
WARNING:
^ Do not re-use any fasteners that are worn or deformed in normal use.
^ Some fasteners are designed to be used only once, and are unreliable and may fail if used a second time. This includes, but is not limited to, nuts, bolts, washers, circlips and cotter pins. Always follow the recommendations-replace these fasteners with new parts where indicated, and any other time it is deemed necessary by inspection.
Special tools, test equipment and auxiliary items
Removing
- Support engine using engine support bridge.
- Remove wheel trim.
On light-alloy wheels use puller in vehicle tool kit to remove trim cap.
- Remove wheels.
- Remove noise insulation panel.
- Before loosening subframe, use 3393 testing mandrel to make sure that holes -1- and -2- are aligned.
- If holes -1- and -2- are not aligned, carry out axle alignment measurements after installing the subframe.
CAUTION: Install a support device (e.g. VAG 1383A transmission jack) to prevent damage to the lower link joints resulting from excessive rebound travel in the suspension.
- Remove nuts -3-.
- Loosen bolts -1- (attach lower guide links to subframe).
- Remove bolts -1-.
- Remove bolts -2- and lower subframe at rear.
Note: To prevent the outer joints on the lower track control link and guide link from being bent too far, secure the links to the car body using a piece of wire or similar.
- Remove bolts for lower guide links.
- Remove lower guide links from subframe.
- Remove bolts -5-.
- Remove nuts -2- (attach lower track control links to subframe) and remove bolts.
- Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensor wiring from retainers on brake calipers.
- Remove lower track control links from subframe.
- Remove bolts -3- and -4-.
- Remove bolts -5-.
- Loosen bolts -6- until subframe can be removed.
Installing
^ All bolts and nuts must be replaced
- Install subframe and loosely install bolts -5- and -6-.
- Install bolts securing suspension struts to lower track control links.
- Install lower track control links and lower guide links in subframe.
- Install bolts in outer holes (arrows).
^ Before tightening, 3393 testing mandrel must be installed to align subframe to body
^ Hole -1-, subframe hole -2- and aluminum console hole -3- must align on both sides
Notes:
^ When installing the complete subframe, the 3393 testing mandrel can be used to align the subframe to the body only if holes -1- and -2- were aligned before the repairs were made.
^ If the 3393 testing mandrel is not used when installing the subframe or if holes -1- and -2- did not align before repairs were made a wheel alignment will need to be carried out.
- Loosely install bolts -1- and -2-.
- Loosely install bolts -3- and -4-.
- Carry out corrosion protection measures, as needed, to holes used for 3393 testing mandrel.
Tightening sequence and tightening torques
CAUTION: The bonded rubber bushings can only be turned to a limited extent. The bolted connections on the suspension links should therefore only be tightened when the vehicle is standing on the ground
- Tighten bolts -2- and -5- to 110 Nm (81 ft. lbs.) + 1/4-turn (90°).
- Tighten bolts -6- to 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten bolts -1- to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten nuts -3- and -4- to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten bolts for lower track control link to 80 Nm (59 ft. lbs.) + 1/4-turn (90°).
- Tighten guide link bolts to 90 Nm (66 ft. lbs.) + 1/4-turn (90°).
- Attach coupling link to stabilizer bar using new ribbed nuts.
^ Ribbed nut tightening torque: 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.).
^ Suspension strut to lower track control link tightening torque: 90 Nm (66 ft. lbs.).
- Install ABS wheel speed sensor wiring into retainer on brake caliper.
- Install wheels.