Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Subframe, Removing and Installing


Subframe, Removing and Installing
WARNING:
- Do not re-use any fasteners that are worn or deformed in normal use.


- Some fasteners are designed to be used only once, and are unreliable and may fail if used a second time. This includes, but is not limited for nuts) bolts, washers, circlips and cotter pins. Always follow the recommendations in this repair information, replace these fasteners with new parts where Indicated, and any other time it is deemed necessary by inspection.





Special tools, test equipment and auxiliary items

Removing





- Support engine using engine support bridge.
- Remove wheel trim.
On light alloy wheels use puller in vehicle tool kit to remove trim cap.
- Remove wheels.
- Remove noise insulation panel.





- Before loosening subframe, use 3393 testing mandrel to make sure that holes -1- and -2- are aligned.
- If holes -1- and -2- are not aligned, carry out wheel alignment after installing subframe.

CAUTION: Install a support device (e.g. VAG1383A transmission jack) to prevent damage to the lower link joints resulting from excessive rebound travel in the suspension.





- Remove nuts -3-.
- Loosen bolts -1- (attaching lower guide links to subframe).





- Remove bolts -1-.
- Remove bolts -2- and lower subframe at rear.

Note: To prevent the outer joints on the lower track control link and guide link from being bent too far, secure the links to the car body using a piece of wire or similar.

- Remove bolts for lower guide links.
- Remove lower guide links from subframe.





- Remove bolts -5-.

Note: For vehicles with headlight range control, Refer to Lighting and Horns.

- Remove nuts -2- (attaching lower track control links to subframe) and remove bolts.
- Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensor wiring from retainers on brake calipers.





- Remove lower track control links from subframe.





- Remove nuts -3- and -4-.
- Remove bolts -5-.
- Loosen bolts -6- until subframe can be removed.

Installing
- All nuts and bolts must be replaced





- Install subframe; install bolts -5- and -6- hand-tight.
- Install bolts securing suspension struts to lower track control links.





- Install lower track control links and lower guide links in subframe.
- Install bolts in inner holes (arrows).

Note: For vehicles with headlight range control, Refer to Lighting and Horns.

- Before tightening, 3393 testing mandrel must be installed to align subframe to body





- Hole -1-, subframe hole -2- and aluminum bracket hole -3- must align on both sides

Notes:
- When installing the complete subframe, the 3393 testing mandrel can be used to align the subframe to the body only if holes -1- and -2- were aligned before the repairs were made.
- If the 3393 testing mandrel is not used when installing the subframe or if holes -1and -2- did not align before repairs were made a wheel alignment will need to be carried out.





- Loosely install bolts -1- and -2-.
- Loosely install bolts -3 and -4-.
- Carry out corrosion protection measures, as needed, to holes used for 3393 testing mandrel.

Tightening sequence

CAUTION: The bonded rubber bushings can only be turned to a limited extent. The bolted connections on the suspension links should therefore only be tightened when the vehicle is standing on the ground.





- Tighten bolts -2- and -5- to 110 Nm (81 ft. lbs.) + 1/4-turn (90°).
- Tighten bolts -6- to 75 Nm (55 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten bolts -1- to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten nuts -3- and -4- to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten bolts for lower track control link to 80 Nm (59 ft. lbs.) + 1/4-turn (90°).
- Tighten guide link bolts to 90 Nm (66 ft. lbs.) + 1/4-turn (90°).
- Attach coupling link to stabilizer bar using new ribbed nuts and tighten to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.).
- Attach suspension strut to lower track control link.
Tightening torque: 90 Nm (66 ft. lbs.)
- Install ABS wheel speed sensor wiring into retainer on brake caliper.
- Install wheels.