Front Suspension
Layout of front axle components
General notes:
Welding and straightening operations are not permitted on load-bearing or wheel-controlling components.
Do not attempt to move a vehicle without a drive axle installed as this will result in wheel bearing damage. If the vehicle has to be moved, always note the following points:
^ Install an outer joint in place of the drive axle.
^ Tighten outer joint to 200 Nm.
Bonded rubber bushings can only be turned to a limited extent. Therefore only tighten the bolted connections on components with bonded rubber bushings with the wheel bearing housing raised (control position).
Note => installing the self-leveling sensor.
^ Always remove/install or replace completely
^ The sensor lever must point forward
^ Perform the control position adaptation procedure after loosening
Programming and Relearning
Component groups
Part 1 Mounting bracket, upper link, air spring damper
Part 2 Control arm, guide link, wheel bearing housing, self-leveling sensor, drive shaft
Part 3 Subframe, engine carrier, stabilizer bar
Part 4 Assembly overview of wheel bearing
Part 1
Mounting bracket, upper link, air spring damper
1. Bolt
^ 60 Nm plus additional 1/4 turn 90 °
^ Always replace
2. Washer
3. Bolt
^ 50 Nm plus additional 1/4 turn 90 °
^ Always replace
^ Observe tightening sequence
4. Nut, 30 Nm
5. Bracket
6. Self-locking nut
^ Always replace
7. Upper front link
8. Upper rear link
^ Can only be removed together with mounting bracket
9. Self-locking nut
^ Always replace
10. Bolt
11. Bolt
^ Tightening torque => 5 Nm
12. Nut
^ Tightening torque => Self locking nut, 50 Nm
^ Replace each time after removing
13. Wheel bearing housing
14. Tie rod end
15. Bolt, 50 Nm
16. Washer
17. Air spring shock
^ With sleeve at suspension strut dome
^ The boot must have no indentations, eliminate indentations => Fig 1
^ Note Different suspension versions => vehicle data sticker
18. Air line
^ Replace the complete line, do not shorten =>: Fig 2
^ Color: left front -red; right front - green
19. Connection piece, 3 Nm
^ Always adhere to tightening torque!
^ Unscrew only when vehicle is raised and air spring shock absorber is not under load (otherwise, danger of injury when lowering vehicle)
^ Replace air line if leaking
^ Clean the line connection before loosening
^ Air escapes during unscrewing
^ Protect connection from contamination
20. Residual pressure retention valve
^ Must not be loosened under any circumstances
Fig. 1 Eliminating indentations in the boot
Special tools and equipment
^ Commercially available compressed air gun
^ Cloths
Note: The illustration shows the rear air spring damper. The front and rear repair sequences are identical.
^ Place cloths -1- round the lower connection and blow in compressed air through an air vent slit -arrow A- using a compressed air gun (thin nozzle) -2-.
Note: Only increase the pressure until the boot is lightly inflated. This will cause indentations -arrows B- to be smoothed out.
^ If the indentations do not disappear, press them out by hand. Push the boot upward out of the lower attachment, if necessary.
Fig. 2 Replacing the air line
Special tools and equipment
^ V.A.G 1783 Torque wrench
^ V.A.G 1783/1 Spanner attachment (10 mm A/F)
Note: Air lines must not be shortened.
If the air line is damaged or a connection piece is leaking, replace the air line completely as follows:
^ Clean the connection piece areas.
^ Unscrew the connection pieces at the air spring damper and solenoid valve and remove the air line.
^ Screw in and tighten new connection pieces -1-. The tightening torque must be observed.
^ Install new air line with suitable attachment clips/grommets at the marked locations on the air line.
^ Remove transport locks -2-.
^ Only remove the protective transportation caps -3- immediately before attaching the air line 4-.
^ Push the air line-4- into the connection pieces -1- as far as the limit stop, applying some pressure.
The air lines are properly attached if only one of the two marks is visible -arrow A-.
Part 2
Control arm, guide link, wheel bearing housing
1. Subframe
2. Guide link Removing and installing
^ If the hydraulic bushing is leaking it must be replaced
3. Bolt
^ 70 Nm plus additional 1/2 turn 180°
^ Always replace
^ Raise wheel bearing housing before tightening
4. Self-locking nut, 120 Nm
^ Always replace
^ If the guide link is not replaced, first remove the locking compound from the thread of the ball joint
5. Self-locking nut
^ Always replace
6. Air spring damper
7. Self-locking nut
^ Always replace
8. Wheel bearing housing
^ Assembly overview of wheel bearing
9. Collar bolt
^ Always replace
Note the sequence of operations for loosening and for tightening.
^ Tightening torque => Refer Drive Shaft Removing and Installing
Drive Axle
10. Cover plate
11. Bolt,10 Nm
12. Self-locking nut, 120 Nm
^ Always replace
^ If the control arm is not replaced, first remove the locking compound from the thread of the ball joint
13. Drive axle
14. Bolt, 70 Nm
^ Pre-tighten to 10 Nm in diagonal sequence
15. Bolt, 8 Nm
16. Speed sensor
17. Bolt
18. Screening
19. Control arm
20. Self-locking nut
^ 70 Nm plus additional 1/2 turn 180°
^ Always replace
^ Raise wheel bearing housing before tightening
21. Bolt
^ Always replace
22. Self-locking nut, 8 Nm
^ Always replace
23. Bolt
^ 90 Nm plus additional 1/4 turn 90 °
^ Always replace
^ Raise wheel bearing housing before tightening
24. Bolt, 5 Nm
25. Sensor for vehicle level
^ Always remove/install or replace completely
^ The sensor lever must point forward
^ Perform the control position adaptation procedure after loosening
Programming and Relearning
Part 3
Subframe, engine carrier, stabilizer bar
1. Subframe
2. Sub-frame support
3. Bolt, 50 Nm
4. Bolt
^ 150 Nm plus additional 1/4 turn 90°
^ Always replace
^ The threaded plate in the body can be replaced
5. Bolt
^ Always replace
6. Control arm
7. Self-locking nut
^ 40 Nm plus additional 1/4 turn 90 °
^ Always replace
^ Raise wheel bearing housing before tightening
8. Connecting link
^ Identical on left and right
^ Installation position Fig 1.
9. Bolt
^ 40 Nm plus additional 1/4 turn 90 °
^ Always replace
^ Raise wheel bearing housing before tightening
10. Bolt, 38 Nm
^ Screw out and screw in the 2 bolts equally
11. Stabilizer bar
^ With molded on rubber bushing and clip
^ Note Different suspension versions => vehicle data sticker
12. Bolt
^ 150 Nm plus additional 1/4 turn 90°
^ Always replace
^ Threads in the body can be repaired by using a wire thread insert according to DIN 8140 (Heli-coil). The thread insert must be of the same length as the thread in the body.
13. Bolt
^ Attachment to body
^ Tightening torque: Refer to specifications.
14. Engine carrier
15. Bolt
^ Engine mounting attachment
^ Tightening torque: Refer to specifications.
16. Self-locking nut, 56 Nm
^ Always replace
17. Cross member
^ Note correct installation position: The semi-circular recess on the outside must be at the top right
18. Engine mounting
19. Bolt
20. Bolt, 10 Nm
21. Noise insulation holder
Fig. 1 Installation position of connecting link
Left and right connecting links are identical.
The arrow on the connecting link must point forward and be visible from the outside.
This ensures that the larger diameter of the bearing sleeve fits flush at the stabilizer bar/control arm.
Part 4
Assembly overview of wheel bearing
1. Wheel bearing housing
2. Hemispherical head bolts Always replace
^ 80 Nm plus additional 1/4 turn 90 °
3. Wheel bearing
4. Centrifugal disc
^ Always replace at the same time as the wheel bearing -Item 3- or the wheel hub -Item 5 -
5. Wheel hub
6. Wheel bearing unit
^ Consists of wheel bearing -Item 3 -, centrifugal disc -Item 4- and wheel hub -Item 5 -