Replacing Cemented Seals

1. Damage Cases.

1.1 Partially loosened seals:

- up to 120 mm correction by hand.
- up to 200 mm correction on straight surfaces with help of contact pressure.

1.2 Greater damage (mechanical injuries, seriously loosened seals).

2. Possible Repairs.

2.1 Partially loosened rubber/adhesive tape or adhesive tape/paint seal connections can be repaired with cyanacrylate cement (Loctite No. 380*).

Procedures:

a) Clean damaged surfaces.

- Remove grease and other residue from the cement surface.
- Use cotton or lintless paper towels (use only once).

b) If a solvent is used allow the damaged surface at least 2 minutes air dry time.

c) Apply a very thin bead of cyanacrylate cement on the adhesive tape using a fine nozzle.

- Avoid contact with skin!
- Keep cement off of visible painted surfaces.

d) Press on rubber seal for at least 30 seconds. Only contact: pressure is necessary. which must be maintained over the full time of 30 seconds. The cemented connection may be subjected to loads after two minutes. It is absolutely essential to keep to this time.

2.2 The entire rubber seal must be replaced in case of more seriously loosened seals and/or damage to the rubber profile. See Sunroof/Moonroof Weatherstrip.

Procedures:

a) Peel off the damaged rubber seal.

- Pull off rubber seal slowly at an angle of 15 to 25°, ensuring that the doubling (connection between adhesive tape and seal) is maintained.

- If the doubling itself has become loose, pull the adhesive tape off of the roof opening edges and/or lids carefully and slowly at an angle of 15 to 25°.

- Peel off older seals if necessary with help of a hot air blower (don't damage the paint finish); the rubber seal/adhesive tape connection should not be loosened in this operation.

b) Pull the liner (protective sheet on cemented surface) off of the rubber seal section by section. Take hold of tab!

c) Install rubber seal in roof opening beginning at rear center. Use the upper lip as an alignment edge. Press on seal all around by hand. Unwind and press on seal in radii carefully and without tension (critical zones). If the seal is not positioned correctly. it can be pulled off, repositioned and pressed on again.

d) Mark the butt joint position by pressing the loose end of the seal on the flock of the already cemented end (small particles of the flock will stick on the adhesive tape), then cut off straight and press on the loose end in the same height.

e) Press on seal using a roller. Contact pressure: approx. 30 N.

f) Tear off the tear-off lip at rear and sides in area of the narrow flange.

Important! If the liner has been pulled off, never grab hold of the uncovered cement surface.

3. Checking Rubber Seals:

- The cemented seals must be checked for correct positioning and perfect adhesion. The cement can be seen after pushing the sealing lip back. The peeling-off force of the seal must be greater than 10 N/cm immediately after cementing.

4. General Information About Rubber Seals:

- Seals, which are delivered with partially loosened liners, must not be cemented.

- Seals must be stored at 15 to 25° C.

- If the liner becomes loose during handling prior to cementing, the seal can still be cemented.

- Cementing at room and object temperature of > 18° C. Temperatures between 40 and 50° C will considerably improve initial adhesion.

- Seals, which are subjected to temperatures higher than 80° C after cementing, will be very difficult to remove.