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Body - Convertible Top Cover replacement

SI B 54 01 05
Special Roofs

January 2005
Technical Service

This Service Information bulletin supersedes S.I. B 54 02 98 dated April 1998.

[NEW] designates changes to this revision

SUBJECT
Soft Top Cover Replacement

MODEL
Z3 Roadster

SITUATION

The Z3 soft top has had a number of improvements made to prevent chafing of the top material when open, and to stiffen the rear window area to improve resistance to kinking. The phase in of the new style tan tops was in 10/96 and black tops was 5/97. The new style top covers can be identified by the "pocket" in the vertical seam just behind the side windows.

The early style top covers will no longer be available in the parts system. The new style tops require some revised installation procedures in order to fit the early frame. The instructions described in this bulletin outline the steps to install new style covers on all frames used since the introduction of the Z3. Since there have been running production changes, not all steps described will be necessary for all installations, depending on the production date of the vehicle.

PROCEDURE

Note:
For purposes of clarity the frame bows have been numbered 1 through 4, from front to rear.





Tape off bodywork around top well to protect the paint. Open the top and remove the trim piece (1).





Close top, but do not latch Remove the fastening pins (1) and pull the trim (2) away from the tack strip (3).





Remove fastening screws (1 and 2) from tack strip (3).

Note:
When the top cover is replaced, it is recommended to replace the sealing frame also. If for some reason the sealing frame is not going to be replaced, do not remove the screws holding the sealing frame in place. Remove the sealing frame fastening screws (4).





Remove plug from water channel to allow access to screw (1). Remove the fastening screws (1 and 2). Remove sealing frame fastening screws (4). Pull the tack strip and sealing frame away from the body as a unit. Using a heat gun to soften the sealant between the body and sealing frame makes this operation easier.





Remove window seals (1 and 2) from brackets. The intermediate (short) seal can remain in place.





Remove screws (1) holding seal bracket to frame, taking note of the position and number of any shims. Loosen screw (2), but do not remove.





Remove screws (1) from windshield brackets (2), and swing tab (3) up out of the way.





Remove screws (1) holding retaining rail (2) to front bow.





Peel top material away from front bow.





Remove screws (1) holding seal bracket (3) to frame, taking note of the position and number of any shims (2).

Note:
The seal bracket will be removed along with the top cover.

Fold soft top (1) back.





(Early style frame) Remove screws (2) from front cable bracket (3). (Late style frame) Remove screw fastening tension cable inside number one bow and thread cable out through hole in frame (not illustrated).





Remove fastener (1) holding strap (2) to number 2 bow (3)





Remove plastic covers (1) from bows.





Peel fabric flaps off bows 2, 3 and 4.





Remove rivets (1) holding strap (2) to number 4 bow (3).





Remove pivot bolt (1) from number 4 bow (2) and slide strap (3) off bow.





Remove top cover and sealing frame as a unit.





Remove adhesive residue from bows. Remove residue of sealant from body in top well.





Install strip of butyl sealing tape (2) directly over the full length of the foam strip (1) on the backside of new sealing frame. Add a second strip in the corners. Install sealing frame in well, but do not tighten mounting bolts.

Place new top on frame, and slide straps onto number 4 bow.





Rotate straps around bow so that the points on the strap align with the inboard rivet hole (1). One rivet hole in the strap (2) will align with the other hole in the bow. Rivet strap to frame at this point.





The second hole in the strap (on the opposite side of the hole that you just riveted) will not have a corresponding hole in the bow. You will use the strap as a template to mark the proper hole position on the bow.

Make sure that the strap remains wrapped around the bow so that the loop on the bow is not twisted. Mark the bow with an awl through the hole in the strap.

Slide the strap up on the bow, and drill an 1/8" hole in the bow (This is not necessary on late production frames). Install second rivet. Reinstall pivot screws in number 4 bow.





(Early Style Frames) Drill two 1/8" holes in the rear of the number 3 bow, with the inner hole (A) 15 mm out from the existing webbing, and the hole centers (B) 12.5 mm apart.





Rivet the straps to the number 3 bow.





Rivet straps (2) to number 2 bow Compare tensioning cables on old top to those in new top. Vehicles produced after 12/96 have the same style cables. If cable styles are different, cut cable, remove from new top, and install early style cables, p/n 54 31 84 00 953. Rivet cable bracket to forward hole of B-pillar seal bracket, from inside out.





Install final screw through plastic top retainer and rear hole of cable bracket, and tighten to B-pillar seal bracket. Fasten B-pillar seal bracket to frame.





Early style frame: Fasten the tension cable bracket (3) to the frame with the rearmost screw (2) only.

Late style frame: Thread the cable through the frame and fasten in place (not illustrated).





Fasten the side tabs in place





Pull the front of the new top around the number one bow. If new top has double-sided tape in place, remove the protective strip and press cover into place so that the holes in the fabric align with the holes in the frame. It may be necessary to use an awl to align the holes in the fabric and frame. If the top does not have tape attached, use part number 54 11 2 290 978. Install retaining rail (2) and reinstall screws (1).





Apply butyl sealing tape (2) to inside of sealing frame, on top of the foam strip (1). Align the lower edge of the sealing tape with the lower edge of the foam. Apply a second strip in the corners. Align tack strip and press into place.





Install all screws in tack strip finger tight.





Align number 4 bow (1) so that the stitching of the seam in the cover lies centered on the high point of the bow. Note: If the bow is not properly positioned, closing effort will be high, and the top material will be loose. Align sealing frame to the body and tighten screws. Close top so that tensioning bars are over center, but do not latch. Tighten screws in tack strip.





Close and latch the top. Attach flaps to bows 2, 3 and 4 with double-sided tape. Reinstall plastic bow covers





Reinstall screws (1) in seal bracket, replacing any shims in there original position, and tighten all screws (1 and 2). Reinstall seals and adjust if necessary.

Whenever a new top is installed, initial closing effort will be higher than normal until the fabric has a chance to stretch into final position. This can be overnight or several days, depending on conditions. Customers should be advised of this so that they are aware of this condition.

[NEW] For additional information, refer to Repair Instructions 54 31 010 and 54 31 020.





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WARRANTY INFORMATION