Disassembly
REMOVALThe valve body can be removed for service without having to remove the transmission assembly. The valve body can be disassembled for cleaning and inspection of the individual components.
The only replaceable valve body components are:
- Manual lever.
- Manual lever washer, seal, E-clip, and shaft seal.
- Manual lever detent ball.
- Throttle lever.
- Fluid filter.
- Pressure adjusting screw bracket.
- Governor pressure solenoid.
- Governor pressure sensor (includes transmission temperature thermistor).
- Converter clutch/overdrive solenoid assembly and harness.
- Governor housing gasket.
- Solenoid case connector O-rings.
1. Shift transmission into NEUTRAL.
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Remove gearshift and throttle levers from shaft of valve body manual lever.
4. Disconnect wires at solenoid case connector (Fig. 275).
5. Remove the transmission range sensor.
6. Position drain pan under transmission oil pan.
7. Remove transmission oil pan and gasket.
8. Remove fluid filter from valve body
9. Remove bolts attaching valve body to transmission case.
10. Lower valve body enough to remove accumulator piston and springs.
11. Work manual lever shaft and electrical connector out of transmission case.
12. Lower valve body, rotate valve body away from case, pull park rod out of sprag, and remove valve body (Fig. 276).
DISASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Do not clamp any valve body component in a vise. This practice can damage the component resulting in unsatisfactory operation after assembly and installation. Do not use pliers to remove any of the valves, plugs or springs and do not force any of the components out or into place. The valves and valve body housings will be damaged if force is used. Tag or mark the valve body springs for reference as they are removed. Do not allow them to become intermixed.
1. Disconnect wires from governor pressure sensor and solenoid.
2. Remove screws attaching governor body and retainer plate to transfer plate.
3. Remove retainer plate, governor body and gasket from transfer plate.
4. Remove governor pressure sensor from governor body
5. Remove governor pressure solenoid by pulling it straight out of bore in governor body Remove and discard solenoid O-rings if worn, cut, or torn.
6. Remove small shoulder bolt that secures solenoid harness case connector to 3-4 accumulator housing (Fig. 277). Retain shoulder bolt. Either tape it to harness or thread it back into accumulator housing after connector removal.
7. Unhook overdrive/converter solenoid harness from 3-4 accumulator cover plate (Fig. 278).
8. Turn valve body over and remove screws that attach overdrive/converter solenoid assembly to valve body (Fig. 279).
9. Remove solenoid and harness assembly from valve body (Fig. 280).
10. Remove boost valve cover (Fig. 281).
11. Remove boost valve retainer, valve spring and boost valve (Fig. 282).
12. Secure detent ball and spring with Retainer Tool 6583 (Fig. 283).
13. Remove park rod E-clip and separate rod from manual lever (Fig. 284).
14. Remove E-clip and washer that retains throttle lever shaft in manual lever (Fig. 285).
15. Remove manual lever and throttle lever (Fig. 286). Rotate and lift manual lever off valve body and throttle lever shaft. Then slide throttle lever out of valve body
16. Position pencil magnet next to detent housing to catch detent ball and spring. Then carefully remove Retainer Tool 6583 and remove detent ball and spring (Fig. 287).
17. Remove screws attaching pressure adjusting screw bracket to valve body and transfer plate (Fig. 288). Hold bracket firmly against spring tension while removing last screw.
18. Remove adjusting screw bracket, line pressure adjusting screw, pressure regulator valve spring and switch valve spring (Fig. 289). Do not remove throttle pressure adjusting screw from bracket and do not disturb setting of either adjusting screw during removal.
19. Turn upper housing over and remove switch valve, regulator valve and spring, and manual valve (Fig. 290).
20. Remove kickdown detent, kickdown valve, and throttle valve and spring (Fig. 290).
21. Loosen left-side 3-4 accumulator housing attaching screw about 2-3 threads. Then remove center and right-side housing attaching screws (Fig. 291).
22. Carefully rotate 3-4 accumulator housing upward and remove 3-4 shift valve spring and converter clutch valve plug and spring (Fig. 292).
23. Remove left-side screw and remove 3-4 accumulator housing from valve body (Fig. 293).
24. Bend back tabs on boost valve tube brace (Fig. 294).
25. Remove boost valve connecting tube (Fig. 295). Disengage tube from upper housing port first. Then rock opposite end of tube back and forth to work it out of lower housing.
CAUTION: Do not use tools to loosen or pry the connecting tube out of the valve body housings. Loosen and remove the tube by hand only.
26. Turn valve body over so lower housing is facing upward (Fig. 296). In this position, the two check balls in upper housing will remain in place and not fall out when lower housing and separator plate are removed.
27. Remove screws attaching valve body lower housing to upper housing and transfer plate (Fig. 296). Note position of boost valve tube brace for assembly reference.
28. Remove lower housing and overdrive separator plate from transfer plate (Fig. 296).
29. Remove the Number 10 check ball from the transfer plate (Fig. 297). The check ball is approximately 4.8 mm (3/16 inch) in diameter.
30. Remove transfer plate from upper housing (Fig. 298).
31. Turn transfer plate over so upper housing separator plate is facing upward.
32. Remove upper housing separator plate from transfer plate (Fig. 299). Note position of filter in separator plate for assembly reference.
33. Remove rear clutch and rear servo check balls from transfer plate. Note check ball location for assembly reference (Fig. 300).
VALVE BODY UPPER HOUSING
1. Note location of check balls in valve body upper housing (Fig. 301). Then remove the one large diameter and the five smaller diameter check balls.
2. Remove governor plug and shuttle valve covers (Fig. 303).
3. Remove E-clip that secures shuttle valve secondary spring on valve stem (Fig. 302).
4. Remove throttle plug, primary spring, shuttle valve, secondary spring, and spring guides (Fig. 303).
5. Remove boost valve retainer, spring and valve if not previously removed.
6. Remove throttle plug and 1-2 and 2-3 governor plugs (Fig. 290).
7. Turn upper housing around and remove limit valve and shift valve covers (Fig. 304).
8. Remove limit valve housing. Then remove retainer, spring, limit valve, and 2-3 throttle plug from limit valve housing (Fig. 304).
9. Remove 1-2 shift control valve and spring (Fig. 304).
10. Remove 1-2 shift valve and spring (Fig. 304).
11. Remove 2-3 shift valve and spring from valve body (Fig. 304).
12. Remove pressure plug cover (Fig. 304).
13. Remove line pressure sleeve, throttle pressure plug and spring (Fig. 304).
VALVE BODY LOWER HOUSING
1. Remove timing valve cover.
2. Remove 3-4 timing valve and spring.
3. Remove 3-4 quick fill valve, spring and plug.
4. Remove 3-4 shift valve and spring.
5. Remove converter clutch valve, spring and plug (Fig. 305).
6. Remove converter clutch timing valve, retainer and valve spring.
3-4 ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
1. Remove end plate from housing.
2. Remove piston spring.
3. Remove piston. Remove and discard piston seals (Fig. 306).
CLEANING
Clean the valve housings, valves, plugs, springs, and separator plates with a standard parts cleaning solution only. Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or any type of caustic solution.
Do not immerse any of the electrical components in cleaning solution. Clean the governor solenoid and sensor and the dual solenoid and harness assembly by wiping them off with dry shop towels only.
Dry all except the electrical parts with compressed air. Make sure all passages are clean and free from obstructions. Do not use rags or shop towels to dry or wipe off valve body components. Lint from these materials can stick to valve body parts, interfere with valve operation, and clog filters and fluid passages.
Wipe the governor pressure sensor and solenoid valve with dry, lint free shop towels only. The O-rings on the sensor and solenoid valve are the only serviceable components. Be sure the vent ports in the solenoid valve are open and not blocked by dirt or debris. Replace the valve and/or sensor only when DRB scan tool diagnosis indicates this is necessary. Or, if either part has sustained physical damage (dented, deformed, broken, etc.).
CAUTION: Do not turn the small screw at the end of the solenoid valve for any reason. Turning the screw in either direction will ruin solenoid calibration and result in solenoid failure. In addition, the filter on the solenoid valve is NOT serviceable. Do not try to remove the filter as this will damage the valve housing.
INSPECTION
Inspect the throttle and manual valve levers and shafts. Do not attempt to straighten a bent shaft or correct a loose lever. Replace these components if worn, bent, loose or damaged in any way.
Inspect all of the valve body mating surfaces for scratches, nicks, burrs, or distortion. Use a straightedge to check surface flatness. Minor scratches may be removed with crocus cloth using only very light pressure.
Minor distortion of a valve body mating surface may be corrected by smoothing the surface with a sheet of crocus cloth. Position the crocus cloth on a surface plate, sheet of plate glass or equally flat surface. If distortion is severe or any surfaces are heavily scored, the valve body will have to be replaced.
CAUTION: Many of the valves and plugs, such as the throttle valve, shuttle valve plug, 1-2 shift valve and 1-2 governor plug, are made of coated aluminum. Aluminum components are identified by the dark color of the special coating applied to the surface (or by testing with a magnet). Do not sand aluminum valves or plugs under any circumstances. This practice could damage the special coating causing the valves/plugs to stick and bind.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs, nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth but do not round off the edges of the valve or plug lands. Maintaining sharpness of these edges is vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter from lodging between the valves and plugs and the bore.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve body Use a penlight to view the bore interiors. Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken coils.
Check the two separator plates for distortion or damage of any kind. Inspect the upper housing, lower housing, 3-4 accumulator housing, and transfer plate carefully. Be sure all fluid passages are clean and clear. Check condition of the upper housing and transfer plate check balls as well. The check balls and ball seats must not be worn or damaged.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Valve body bores do not change dimensionally with use. If the valve body functioned correctly when new, it will continue to operate properly after cleaning and inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a valve body assembly unless it is damaged in handling.
The only serviceable valve body components are listed below. The remaining valve body components are serviced only as part of a complete valve body assembly. Serviceable parts are:
- dual solenoid and harness assembly
- solenoid gasket
- solenoid case connector O-rings and shoulder bolt
- switch valve and spring
- pressure adjusting screw and bracket assembly
- throttle lever
- manual lever and shaft seal
- throttle lever shaft seal, washer, and E-clip
- fluid filter and screws
- detent ball and spring
- valve body screws
- governor pressure solenoid
- governor pressure sensor and retaining clip
- park lock rod and E-clip