Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Steering: Testing and Inspection






Important: Damaged or broken steering linkage components must be replaced. Never attempt to repair these parts by welding.

INSPECT
1. Set the wheels in the straight ahead position.
2. Set the steering wheel in the locked position.
3. Raise the vehicle on one side so one of the front tires is about 25 mm (1 inch) off the floor.
4. Position a dial indicator. Refer to position (1).
5. Move the same wheel back and forth without moving the steering wheel. The dial indicator reading should not exceed 2.74 mm (0.108 inch).
6. If the gage reading exceeds specifications, inspect all linkage pivots and ball studs for looseness and replace where necessary.

Tie Rod Ends
The tie rod ends are self-adjusting for wear and require periodic lubrication and inspection. Tie rod ends should be replaced when excessive up and down motion is present, or when excessive end play or loss of motion at the ball stud exists.

Idler Arm

Inspect
1. Raise the vehicle and support it with safety stands.
2. Allow the front wheels to rotate freely and the steering mechanism freedom to turn.
3. Position the wheels in a straight ahead position.
4. Place a spring scale near the relay rod end of the idler arm. Exert 110 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) force upward and then downward while measuring the total distance the arm moves. The allowable deflection is +/- 3 mm (1/8 inch) in either direction for a total of 6 mm (1/4 inch). Replace the idler arm if it fails this test.

Important: Jerking the right tire and wheel assembly back and forth, causing an up and down movement of the idler arm, is NOT an acceptable testing procedure. There is no control on the amount of force being applied to the idler arm.

Vehicle shimmy is not always caused by a loose idler arm. Before suspecting suspension or steering components, technicians should consider areas such as dynamic imbalance, runout, or force variation of tire and wheel assemblies, and road surface irregularities.