Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Drivetrain - Ping/Squeal/Rattle on Light Acceleration

07-028

February 8, 2008

Applies To:
See VEHICLES AFFECTED

Pinging, Rattling, or Squealing During Light Acceleration
(Supersedes 07-028, dated November 20, 2007)

Updated information marked by a black bar

SYMPTOM

While driving under light acceleration, you hear an intermittent pinging, rattling, or squealing from the engine compartment. The noise can easily be mistaken for an engine ping or spark knock. In some cases, the noise happens only during engine warm up.

PROBABLE CAUSE

The intermediate shaft heat shield is loose in its mounting bushings.

CORRECTIVE ACTION

Replace the intermediate shaft heat shield and, if needed, any specified nuts or gaskets.








VEHICLES AFFECTED





PARTS INFORMATION

WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION

In warranty: The normal warranty applies.

Operation Number: 2191N6

Flat Rate Time: Accord Hybrid - 1.1 hours
Accord V6 -1.1 hours
Odyssey - 0.9 hour
Pilot - 1.6 hours
Ridgeline - 1.6 hours

Failed Part: P/N 44517-SDB-A00
H/C 7247851

Defect Code: 07405

Symptom Code: 04216

Skill Level: Repair Technician

Out of warranty:
Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.

DIAGNOSIS





NOTE:
If you're viewing this service bulletin on ISIS and the computer has sound, click on the image to hear an example of how the noise may sound and see its rpm levels.

1. Drive the vehicle at low speeds (25 mph or less) under light throttle.

^ If you hear a ping, rattle, or squeal, go to step 3.

^ If you don't hear a ping, rattle, or squeal, go to step 2.

2. While driving the vehicle and applying the throttle, lightly press the brake pedal for a short time.

^ If you hear a ping, rattle, or squeal, go to step 3.

^ If you do not hear a ping, rattle, or squeal, this service bulletin does not apply. Ask the customer more questions to determine the cause of the problem and how to repair it.





3. Do the appropriate repair procedure, based on the model:

^ For Accord Hybrid, Accord V6, and Odyssey, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A: ACCORD HYBRID, ACCORD V6, ODYSSEY.

^ For Pilot and Ridgeline, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B: PILOT, RIDGELINE.

REPAIR PROCEDURE A: ACCORD HYBRID, ACCORD V6, ODYSSEY

1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.





2. Remove exhaust pipe A:

^ Remove the three nuts that attach exhaust pipe A to each warm-up catalytic converter (six nuts total).

^ Disconnect exhaust pipe A from its rubber hanger.

^ Remove the three nuts that attach exhaust pipe A to the TWC.

3. Accord Hybrid only - Remove the steering rack heat shield (two bolts).





4. Remove the exhaust pipe bracket (two bolts).

5. Remove the intermediate shaft heat shield (three bolts).

6. Install a new intermediate shaft heat shield with the original bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft).

7. Reinstall the exhaust pipe bracket, and torque its bolts to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft).

8. Accord Hybrid only - Reinstall the steering rack heat shield with its original bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft).

9. Reattach exhaust pipe A to the warm-up catalytic converters with two new front gaskets and six new nuts. Torque the nuts to 54 Nm (40 lb-ft).

10. Reattach exhaust pipe A to the TWC with a new rear gasket and three new nuts. Torque the nuts to 33 Nm (25 lb-ft).

11. Reconnect exhaust pipe A to its rubber hanger.

REPAIR PROCEDURE B: PILOT, RIDGELINE

1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, and make sure it is securely supported.

2. Remove the right front wheel.





3. Unstake the spindle nut, then remove it.





4. On the right damper assembly, make a reference mark around each damper bolt. This allows you to retain the camber setting when you install new bolts.

5. Remove the damper bolts and nuts from the right damper assembly. The bolts and nuts will not be reused.

NOTE:
You don't need to separate the knuckle from the lower arm.





6. Pull the knuckle outward, separating it from the damper assembly, then release the right driveshaft from the wheel hub by tapping the end of the driveshaft with a plastic hammer.

7. Remove the right driveshaft.





8. Remove exhaust pipe A:

^ Remove the three nuts that attach exhaust pipe A to each warm-up catalytic converter (six nuts total).

^ Disconnect exhaust pipe A from its rubber hanger.

^ Remove the three nuts that attach exhaust pipe A to the TWC.





9. Remove the three bolts from the intermediate shaft heat shield.





10. Remove the intermediate shaft bolts (one flange bolt and two dowel bolts).

11. Remove the exhaust pipe bracket (two bolts).

12. With its heat shield attached, carefully slide the intermediate shaft out of the differential.

13. Remove the heat shield from the intermediate shaft, and place a new one on the shaft.

14. Carefully slide the end of the intermediate shaft back into the differential, making sure not to damage the differential oil seal.

15. Reinstall the exhaust pipe bracket, and torque its bolts to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft).

16. Reinstall the intermediate shaft bolts, and torque them to 39 Nm (29 lb-ft).

17. Reinstall the intermediate shaft heat shield bolts, and torque them to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft).

18. Reattach exhaust pipe A to the warm-up catalytic converters with two new front gaskets and six new nuts. Torque the nuts to 54 Nm (40 lb-ft).

19. Reattach exhaust pipe A to the TWC with a new rear gasket and three new nuts. Torque the nuts to 33 Nm (25 lb-ft).

20. Reconnect exhaust pipe A to its rubber hanger.

21. Slide the inboard end of the driveshaft into the intermediate shaft until the driveshaft set ring locks in place. Slide the outboard end of the driveshaft into the wheel hub.

22. Reattach the knuckle to the damper assembly, then install new damper bolts and nuts. Make sure the reference marks you made on the damper assembly line up with the bolts. Torque the damper nuts to 157 Nm (116 lb-ft).

23. Apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of a new spindle nut.

24. Install the new spindle nut, and torque it to 285 Nm (210 lb-ft). After torquing the nut, stake its shoulder to the end of the driveshaft with a drift.

25. Clean the mating surface of the brake disc and the right front wheel, then reinstall the wheel. On Pilots, torque the wheel nuts to 108 Nm (80 lb-ft). On Ridgelines, torque the wheel nuts to 127 Nm (94 lb-ft).

26. Turn the right front wheel by hand while checking for interference between the driveshaft and any parts. If you find interference, recheck your work.





Disclaimer