Starting System: Testing and Inspection
Starter Circuit TroubleshootingNOTE:
- Air temperature must be between 59 ° and 100 °F (15 ° and 38 °C) during this procedure.
- After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) to clear any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).
- The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
- If you disconnect the battery, do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure.
Recommended Procedure:
- Use a starter system tester.
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Alternate Procedure
1. Hook up the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
- Tachometer, 0 - 1200 rpm
2. Remove the No.6 (15 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
3. With the shift lever in [N] or [P] (A/T, CVT), or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to start (III).
Did the starter crank the engine normally?
YES - The starting system is OK.
NO - Go to step 4.
4. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Repairing the loose connection fixed the problem. The starting system is now OK.
NO - If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 5. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 7. If it won't disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, check for the following until you find the cause.
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
5. Make sure the transmission is in [N] or [P] (A/T, CVT), or neutral (M/T), then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (A) from the starter solenoid (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid terminal.
Did the starter crank the engine?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Remove the starter, repair or replace as necessary.
6. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit.
- Check the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and the ignition switch, and between the starter cut relay and the starter.
- Check the ignition switch.
- With A/T or CVT, check the transmission range switch and connector. With M/T, check the clutch interlock switch and connector.
7. Check the cranking voltage and current draw.
Is cranking voltage no less than 8.5 volts (with A/T) or 8.0 volts (with M/T, CVT), and current draw no more than 350 amps (with A/T) or 200 amps (with M/T, CVT)?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following until you find the cause, or replace the starter.
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Starter armature dragging
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in engine
8. Check engine speed during cranking.
Is engine speed above 100 rpm?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Remove and disassemble the starter, and check for the following until you find the cause, or replace the starter.
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator brushes
- Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
- Faulty drive gear clutch
9. Remove the starter and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.