Clutch Control

REMOVAL
1. Pin and jaw joint pin
2. Pedal assembly and switch
3. Oil line pipe
4. Slave cylinder assembly and heat protector
5. Master cylinder assembly
6. Damper cylinder assembly

INSPECTION AND REPAIR
Make necessary adjustments, repairs, and part replacement if wear, damage or other problems are discovered during inspection.

INSTALLATION
To install, follow the removal steps in the reverse order, noting the following points:

1. Clutch pedal adjustment, as follows:





a. With clutch switch.
- Disconnect clutch switch connector.
- Loosen lock nut, then turn switch out until there is a gap between the switch plunger and clutch pedal.





b. Loosen clutch master cylinder push rod lock nut. Turn push rod by hand to set clutch pedal height (H2) to within specification.
Clutch pedal height (H2): 218.5 - 228.5 mm (8.602 - 8.996 inch).
c. Tighten push rod lock nut.
d. With clutch switch.





- Turn the clutch switch until the switch bolt just touches the clutch pedal arm.





- Adjust clutch switch by backing it out half a turn, and measure the clearance (A) between the clutch pedal arm and the clutch switch.
- Lock the lock nut.
- Connect clutch switch connector.
Clutch switch and clutch pedal clearance (A): 0.5 - 1.5 mm (0.020 - 0.059 inch).





e. After adjusting the clutch pedal height, push the clutch pedal by hand rightly to check the clutch pedal free play (H1) to within specification.
Pedal free play (H1): 5 - 15 mm (0.20 - 0.59 inch).





f. Clutch pedal engagement height inspection.
1. Operate the parking brake lever and block the wheels.
2. Start the engine, fully step on the clutch pedal, and move the shift lever to 1st position.
3. With the engine idling, release the clutch pedal slowly and measure its stroke - just prior to its clutching position.
Clutch Pedal Engagement Height: Minimum 30 mm (1.18 inch).
If the measured value exceeds the specified limit, check the following points. Repair if necessary.
- Hydraulic circuit for fluid leakage or air in circuit.
- Clutch disc warped.
- Diaphragm spring weakened or tip of fingers worn.
- Driven plate sticking on splines.
- Release bearing worn or damaged.
- Master cylinder and slave cylinder worn.
2. Torque.
Master cylinder to dash panel: 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Clutch pedal to dash panel: 21 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)
Master cylinder push rod to yoke: 17 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).
Clutch pipe to master cylinder: 20 Nm (14 ft. lbs.).
Clutch pipe to damper cylinder: 12 Nm (104 inch lbs.).
Clutch pipe to flex hose: 20 Nm (14 ft. lbs.)
Slave cylinder to case: 43 Nm (32 ft. lbs.)
Slave cylinder bleeder screw: 8 Nm (69 inch lbs.).
Clutch pipe to slave cylinder: 20 Nm (14 ft. lbs.).
Damper cylinder bleeder union nut: 49 Nm (36 ft. lbs.).
Damper cylinder bleeder pipe: 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.)
Damper cylinder bleeder screw: 8 Nm (69 inch lbs.).
3. Bleeding, as follows:





a. Check the level of clutch fluid in the reservoir and replenish if necessary.





Bleeding The Damper Cylinder


b. Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw and wipe clean the bleeder screw. Connect a vinyl tube to the bleeder screw and insert the other end of the vinyl tube into a transparent container.






c. Pump the clutch pedal repeatedly and hold it depressed.
d. Loosen the bleeder screw to release clutch fluid with air bubbles into the container, then tighten the bleeder screw immediately.
e. Release the clutch pedal carefully. Repeat the above operation until air bubbles disappear from the clutch fluid being pumped out into the container. During the bleeding operation, keep the clutch fluid reservoir filled to the specified level. Reinstall the rubber cap.





Bleeding The Slave Cylinder

f. Repeat steps (2) through (5) for bleeding the slave cylinder.