Operation CHARM: Car repair manuals for everyone.

Inspection and Service Procedures Part 1






ENGINE BLOCK CLEAN AND INSPECT

Tools Required
- J 8087 Cylinder Bore Checking Gauge

1. Clean all the remaining sealing or gasket material from the sealing surfaces.
2. Boil the cylinder block in caustic solution.
3. Flush the cylinder block with clean water or steam.
4. Clean the cylinder bores.
5. Clean the oil galleries and the passages.
6. Scale the deposits from the coolant passages.
7. After cleaning the engine block, spray or wipe the cylinder bores and the machined surfaces with clean engine oil.
8. Inspect the following areas:
- Core plug bores for damage
- Valve lifter bores for excessive scoring or wear
- Block for cracks or damage
- Cylinder walls for scratches or gouging
- Coolant jackets for cracks
- Crankshaft bearing webs for cracks
- Engine mount bosses for damage
- Crankshaft bearing bores for damage
- Crankshaft bearing caps for damage
- Threaded holes for damage
- The crankshaft bearing bores should be round and uniform when measuring the inside diameter (ID).
- The surface where the crankshaft bearings contact the crankshaft bearing bore should be smooth.
- If a crankshaft bearing cap is damaged and requires replacement, replace the crankshaft bearing cap, and check the bearings for proper clearances.
9. Measure the cylinder bore for taper and out-of-round.
9.1. Depress the plunger on the J8087 7 mm (0.275 in) or until the J 8087 enters the cylinder bore.
9.2. Center the J 8087 in the cylinder bore and turn the indicator dial to zero.
9.3. Move the J 8087 up and down the cylinder bore to determine the taper. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
9.4. Turn the J 8087 to different points around the cylinder bore to determine the out-of-round condition. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.





CYLINDER BORING AND HONING CYLINDER HONING
1. When honing the cylinders, follow the manufacturer's recommendations for equipment use, cleaning and lubrication. Use only clean, sharp stones of the proper grade for the amount of material you remove. Dull, dirty stones cut unevenly and generate excessive heat. Do not hone to a final grade with a coarse or medium-grade stone. Leave sufficient metal so that all stone marks may be removed with fine grade stones. Perform final honing with a fine-grade stone and hone the cylinder in a cross hatch pattern at 45 to 65 degrees to obtain the proper clearance.
2. During the honing operation, thoroughly check the cylinder bore. Repeatedly check the cylinder bore fit with the selected piston.

NOTE: All measurements of the piston or cylinder bore should be made with the components at normal room temperature.

3. When honing to eliminate taper in the cylinder, make full strokes the complete length of the bore. Repeatedly check the measurement at the top, middle, and the bottom of the bore.
4. The finish marks should be clean but not sharp. The finish marks should be free from imbedded particles or torn or folded metal.
5. By measuring the selected piston at the sizing point and by adding the average of the clearance specification, you can determine the final cylinder honing dimension required.
6. When finished, the reconditioned cylinder bores should have less than or meet the specified out-of-round and taper requirements.
7. After final honing and before the piston is checked for fit, clean the cylinder bore with hot water and detergent. Scrub the bores with a stiff bristle brush and rinse the bores thorough with hot water. Do not allow any abrasive material to remain in the cylinder bores. This abrasive material may cause premature wear of the new piston rings and the cylinder bores. Abrasive material will also contaminate the engine oil and may cause premature wear of the bearings. After washing the cylinder bore, dry the bore with a clean rag.
8. Perform final measurements of the piston and cylinder bore.
9. Permanently mark the top of the piston for the specified cylinder to which it has been fitted.
10. Apply clean engine oil to each cylinder bore in order to prevent rusting.





BORING PROCEDURE
1. Before you start the honing or reboring operation, measure all new pistons with the micrometer contacting at points exactly 90 degrees from the piston pin centerline.
2. Before you use any type of boring bar, file the top of the cylinder block in order to remove any dirt or burrs. If you do not check the cylinder block, the boring bar may be tilted, this could result in the rebored cylinder wall being at incorrect angles to the crankshaft.
3. Carefully follow the instructions furnished by the manufacturer regarding use of equipment.
4. When you rebore cylinders, make sure all crankshaft bearing caps are in place. Tighten the bearing caps to the proper torque in order to avoid distortion of the bores in the final assembly. The crankshaft must be clear of the boring cutter when you bore each cylinder.
5. When you take the final cut with a boring bar, leave 0.03 mm (0.001 in) on the diameter for finish honing. This gives the required position to the cylinder clearance specifications. (Carefully perform the honing and boring operation in order to maintain the specified clearances between pistons, rings, and cylinder bores).




CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS CLEAN AND INSPECT

Tools Required
- J 7872 Magnetic Base Dial Indicator
- J 36660 Torque Angle Meter

IMPORTANT:
- Use care when handling the crankshaft. Avoid damage to the bearing surfaces.
- A loose or damaged crankshaft rear oil gallery plug must be replaced.
- Replace the clutch pilot bearing anytime a manual transmission or clutch is removed. A worn clutch pilot bearing will not properly support or align the manual transmission input shaft.

1. Clean the crankshaft in solvent. Remove all sludge or restrictions from the oil passages.
2. Clean the crankshaft bearings in solvent. Wipe the bearings clean with a soft cloth, do not scratch the bearing surfaces.

CAUTION: Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.

3. Dry the crankshaft and bearings with compressed air.




4. Inspect the crankshaft for the following:
- Crankshaft journals (1) should be smooth with no evidence of scoring or damage.
- Deep grooves (2)
- Scratches or uneven wear (3)
- Pitted surfaces (4)
- Wear or damage to the thrust journal surfaces
- Scoring or damage to the rear seal surface
- Restrictions to oil passages
- A loose or damaged rear oil gallery plug
- Damage to threaded bolt holes





5. Inspect the crankshaft key (1), keyway (2), and threaded hole (3) for damage.




6. Measure the crankpins for out-of-round and taper.
7. Measure the crankshaft runout. Using wooden V-blocks, support the crankshaft on the front and rear journals.





8. Use the J 7872 in order to measure crankshaft runout.
9. Crankshaft runout should not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 in).





10. Measure the crankshaft end play.

IMPORTANT: In order to properly measure the crankshaft end play, the crankshaft, bearings, bearing caps, and fasteners must be installed into the engine block and the bolts tightened to specifications.

10.1. Firmly thrust the end of the crankshaft first rearward then forward. This will line up the rear crankshaft bearing and the crankshaft thrust surfaces.
10.2. With the crankshaft pushed forward, insert a feeler gauge between the crankshaft and the bearing surface and measure the clearance. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications for the proper crankshaft end play clearance.
10.3. If the correct end play cannot be obtained, verify that the correct size crankshaft bearing has been installed. Production engines may have rear crankshaft bearing that are 0.2032 mm (0.008 in) wider across the thrust faces than standard. The crankshaft on these engines can be identified by 0.008 stamped on the rear counterweight. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
10.4. Inspect the crankshaft for binding. Turn the crankshaft to check for binding. If the crankshaft does not turn freely, loosen the crankshaft bearing bolts, one cap at a time, until the tight bearing is located. Burrs on the bearing cap, foreign matter between the bearing and the block or the bearing cap, or a faulty bearing could cause a lack of clearance at the bearing.





11. Inspect the crankshaft bearings for craters or pockets. Flattened sections on the bearing halves also indicate fatigue.





12. Inspect the crankshaft bearings for excessive scoring or discoloration.
13. Inspect the crankshaft bearings for dirt or debris imbedded into the bearing material.





14. Inspect the crankshaft bearings for improper seating indicated by bright, polished sections of the bearings.

NOTES:
- If the lower half of the bearing is worn or damaged, both the upper and lower halves should be replaced.
- Generally, if the lower half is suitable for use, the upper half should also be suitable for use.
- The crankshaft bearings are of the precision insert type and do not use shims for adjustment. If the clearances are excessive, the new upper and the lower bearings will be required. The service bearings are available in the standard size and an undersize.
- The selective fitting of the crankshaft bearings are necessary in production in order to obtain close tolerances. For this reason, in one journal bore you may use one-half of a standard crankshaft bearing with one-half of a undersize crankshaft bearing. In order to determine the correct replacement bearing size, the bearing clearance must be measured accurately. Either the micrometer or plastic gauge method may be used, however, the micrometer method gives more reliable results and is preferred.





MICROMETER METHOD FOR CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
1. Measure the crankshaft main journal diameter with a micrometer in several places, approximately 90 degrees apart, and average the measurements.
2. Determine the taper and the out-of-round. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.





3. Install the crankshaft bearings into the crankshaft bearing cap and the engine block.

NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Caution and Notices.

4. Install the crankshaft bearing caps and the bolts.

Tighten
4.1. Tighten the bolts on the first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
4.2. Tighten the bolts on the final pass an additional 73 degrees using the J 36660.

5. Measure the bearing inside diameter (ID) using an inside micrometer.
6. In order to determine the bearing clearance, subtract the journal diameter from the bearing ID.
7. Compare the crankshaft bearing clearance to the specifications. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
8. If the bearing clearances exceeds specifications, install the new crankshaft bearings as follows:
8.1. Measure the bearing inside diameter (ID) using an inside micrometer.
8.2. Compare the crankshaft bearing clearance to the specifications. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
9. Replace or repair the crankshaft if the proper clearances cannot be obtained.





MICROMETER METHOD FOR CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

NOTICE: Do not shim, scrape, or file bearing inserts. Do not touch the bearing surface of the insert with bare fingers. Skin oil and acids will etch the bearing surface.

1. Measure the crankpin diameter with a micrometer in several places, approximately 90 degrees apart, and average the measurements.
2. Determine the taper and the out-of-round. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
3. Install the connecting rod bearings into the connecting rod bearing cap and the connecting rod.

NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

4. Install the connecting rod bearing caps and the nuts.

Tighten
4.1. Tighten the connecting rod nuts on the first pass to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).
4.2. Tighten the connecting rod nuts on the final pass an additional 70 degrees using the J3666.

5. Measure the bearing inside diameter (ID) using an inside micrometer.
6. Compare the connecting rod bearing clearance specifications. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
7. If the bearing clearance is within specifications, the bearing is satisfactory. If the clearance is not within specifications, replace the bearing. Always replace both the upper and the lower bearings as an assembly.
8. A standard or undersize bearing combination may result in the proper clearance. If the proper bearing clearance cannot be achieved using the standard or the undersize bearings, it will be necessary to replace or repair the crankshaft.






PLASTIC GAUGE METHOD FOR MAIN OR CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

1. Install the crankshaft and bearings into the block.




2. Install the gauging plastic the full width of the journal.

NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Caution and Notices.

3. Install the bearing caps and bolts.

Tighten
3.1. Tighten the bolts a first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
3.2. Tighten the bolts a final pass an additional 73 degrees using the J 36660.

4. Remove the bearing caps and bolts. The gauging plastic may adhere to either the crankshaft journal or the bearing surface.





5. On the edge of the gauging plastic envelope there is a graduated scale. Without removing the gauging plastic, measure the compressed width at the width point.
6. If the flattened gauging plastic tapers toward the middle or the ends, there may be a difference in clearance indicating taper, low spot or other irregularity of the bearing or the journal.
7. Normally the crankshaft bearing journals wear evenly and are not out-of-round. However, if a bearing is being fitted to an out-of-round journal (maximum) 0.0254 mm (0.001 in), be sure to fit to the maximum diameter of the journal. If the bearing is fitted to the minimum diameter and the journal is excessively out-of-round, the interference between the bearing and the journal will result in rapid bearing failure.
8. If the bearing clearance is within specifications, the bearing is satisfactory. If the clearance is not within specifications, replace the bearing. Always replace both the upper and lower bearings as a unit.
9. A standard or undersize bearing combination may result in the proper clearance. If the proper bearing clearance cannot be achieved using the standard or the undersize bearings, it may be necessary to repair or replace the crankshaft.

NOTICE: Do not shim, scrape, or file bearing inserts. Do not touch the bearing surface of the insert with bare fingers. Skin oil and acids will etch the bearing surface.

10. Remove the flattened gauging plastic.
11. Measure the remaining journals.






MEASURING CONNECTING ROD SIDE CLEARANCE
1. Insert a feeler gauge between the connecting rod caps and measure the connecting rod side clearance. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
2. Connecting rod clearances may also be measured with a dial indicator set.





CRANKSHAFT BALANCER CLEAN AND INSPECT
1. Clean the crankshaft balancer in solvent.

CAUTION:Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.

2. Dry the crankshaft balancer with compressed air.
3. Inspect the crankshaft balancer for the following:
- Loose or improperly installed balance weights.

NOTE: A properly installed balance weight should be installed until flush or below flush with the face of the crankshaft balancer.

- Worn, grooved, or damaged crankshaft balancer hub seal surface

NOTE: A crankshaft balancer hub seal surface with excessive scoring, grooves, rust, or other damage must be replaced. Minor imperfections on the crankshaft balancer hub seal surface may be removed with a polishing compound or fine grade emery cloth.

- Worn, chunking, or deteriorated rubber between the crankshaft balancer hub and pulley
- Worn or damaged crankshaft balancer keyway
- Damaged bolt threads
4. Inspect for a worn or damaged crankshaft balancer key.





ENGINE FLYWHEEL CLEAN AND INSPECT
1. Clean the flywheel in solvent.

CAUTION: Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.

2. Dry the flywheel with compressed air.
3. Inspect the manual transmission flywheel for loose or improperly installed balance weights. A properly installed balance weight should be installed until flush or below flush with the face of the flywheel.




4. Inspect the manual transmission flywheel for the following:
- Damaged ring gear teeth (4)
- Loose or improperly positioned ring gear. The ring gear has an interference fit onto the flywheel and should be positioned completely against the flange of the flywheel.
- Pitted friction surface (1)
- Scoring or grooves (2) Rust or other damage (3)





5. Inspect the automatic transmission flywheel for the following:
- Damaged ring gear teeth
- Missing balance weights
- Stress cracks around the flywheel-to-crankshaft bolt hole locations.

IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to repair the welded areas that retain the ring gear to the flywheel plate. Install a new flywheel.

- Welded areas that retain the ring gear onto the flywheel for cracking.






PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD DISASSEMBLE

Tools Required
- J 24086-C Piston Pin Remover/Installer

1. Remove the piston rings from the pistons.





2. Press the piston pin from the connecting rod using the J24086-C.

NOTE:The piston pin has an interference fit into the connecting rod and is full floating in the piston.





3. Mark, separate, and organize the parts for assembly.






PISTON, CONNECTING ROD AND BEARINGS CLEAN/INSPECT

IMPORTANT: Measurement of all components should be taken with the components at room temperature. Do not use a wire brush in order to clean any part of the piston.

1. Clean the piston and connecting rod in solvent.

CAUTION: Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.

2. Dry the components with compressed air.





3. Clean the piston ring grooves with a suitable ring groove cleaning tool.
4. Clean the piston oil lubrication holes and slots.




5. Inspect the piston for the following:
- Eroded areas (1) on the top of the piston
- Scuffed or damaged skirt (2)
- Damage to the pin bore (3)
- Cracks in the piston ring lands, the piston skirt, or the pin bosses
- Piston ring grooves for nicks, burrs, or other warpage which may cause the piston ring to bind.
6. Inspect the piston pin for scoring, wear or other damage.





7. Measure the piston ring-to-piston ring groove side clearance.
7.1. Insert the edge of the piston ring into the piston ring groove.

NOTE:Roll the piston ring completely around the piston.

7.2. If binding is caused by a distorted piston ring groove, MINOR imperfections may be removed with a fine file.
7.3. If binding is caused by a distorted piston ring, replace the piston ring.





8. Measure the piston ring side clearance with a feeler gauge.
9. If the side clearance is too small, try another piston ring set.
10. If the proper piston ring-to-piston ring groove clearance cannot be achieved, replace the piston and pin assembly.
11. To determine the proper piston ring side clearance, refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.





12. To determine piston pin-to-bore clearance use a micrometer and measure the piston pin.





13. To determine piston pin-to-bore clearance, use an inside micrometer and measure the piston pin bore.
14. To determine the piston pin-to-bore clearance, subtract the piston pin diameter from the piston pin bore diameter.





15. Measure the piston for out of round.
15.1. With a micrometer at a right angle to the piston, measure the piston at 11 mm (0.433 in) from the bottom of the skirt.
15.2. Measure the piston at three different points 120 degrees apart and compare the readings, refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
15.3. If the clearance is not within specifications, replace the piston and pin as an assembly.





16. Inspect the connecting rod for an out-of-round bearing bore.





17. Inspect the connecting rod for twisting.
18. Inspect the connecting rod for damage to the bearing cap stud threads.





19. Measure the piston compression ring end gap.

IMPORTANT: Fit each compression ring to the cylinder in which it will be used.

19.1. Place the compression ring into the cylinder bore.
19.2. Push the compression ring into the cylinder bore to approximately 6.5 mm (0.25 in) above the ring travel. The ring must be square to the cylinder wall.
19.3. Use a feeler gage in order to measure the end gap.
19.4. Select another size ring set if the end gap exceeds specifications.





PISTON SELECTION

Tools Required
- J 8087 Cylinder Bore Checking Gauge A

IMPORTANT:
- Measurements of all components should be taken with the components at normal room temperature.
- For proper piston fit, the engine block cylinder bores should not have excessive wear or taper.
- A used piston and pin set may be reinstalled if, after cleaning and inspection, they are within specifications.

1. Inspect the engine block cylinder bore. Refer to Engine Block Clean and Inspect
2. Inspect the piston and pin. Refer to Piston, Connecting Rod and Bearings Clean/Inspect.
3. Use a bore gauge and measure the cylinder bore diameter. Measure at a point 64 mm (2.5 in) from the top of the cylinder bore.





4. Measure the bore gauge with a micrometer and record the reading.





5. With a micrometer or caliper at a right angle to the piston, measure the piston 11 mm (0.433 in) from the bottom of the skirt.
6. Subtract the piston diameter from the cylinder bore diameter in order to determine piston-to-bore clearance. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
7. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained, select another piston and measure the clearances.

NOTE:If the proper fit cannot be obtained, the cylinder bore may require honing or boring.

8. When the piston-to-cylinder bore clearance is within specifications, permanently mark the top A of the piston for installation into the proper cylinder.