Inspection and Service Procedures

VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER CLEAN AND INSPECT
1. Clean the valve rocker arm cover in solvent.

CAUTION: Wear safety glasses In order to avoid eye damage.

2. Dry the component with compressed air.
3. Inspect the valve rocker arm cover for the following:
- Cracks or damage to the exterior of the cover
- Damaged gasket groove
- Restrictions to the ventilation system passages
- Cracking around the cover retaining bolt holes
- Damaged PCV valve grommet Damage to the oil fill opening






OIL PAN CLEAN AND INSPECT
1. Remove the oil pan baffle bolts and baffle.
2. Clean the oil pan and baffle in solvent.

CAUTION: Wear safety glasses In order to avoid eye damage.

3. Dry the components with compressed air.
4. Inspect the oil pan for the following:
- Damage or gouges in the gasket sealing surface
- Damage to threaded bolt holes
- Damage to the exterior of the pan

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

5. Install the oil pan baffle and bolts.

Tighten
- Tighten the oil pan baffle bolts to 12 N.m (106 lb in).





INTAKE MANIFOLD DISASSEMBLE
1. Remove the ignition coil studs and ignition coil.




2. Remove the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve and bolts.





3. Remove the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor.





4. Remove the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor from the front of the lower intake manifold.

IMPORTANT: Note the position and direction of the EGR valve before removal. It is possible to improperly install the EGR valve 180 degrees from the original position.





5. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve bolts.

NOTICE: The Linear EGR valve is an electrical component. DO NOT soak in any liquid cleaner or solvent because damage may result.





6. Remove the EGR valve and gasket.
7. Discard the gasket.





8. Remove the water outlet studs, water outlet, and engine coolant thermostat.





9. Remove the throttle body studs.





10. Remove the throttle body and gasket.
11. Discard the gasket.





12. Remove the fuel pipe, nuts, bolt, 0-ring seals, and grommets.





13. Remove the upper intake manifold, gasket, and bolts.
14. Discard the gasket.





15. Remove the fuel meter body.
16. Remove the fuel meter body bracket and bolts.






INTAKE MANIFOLD CLEAN AND INSPECT
1. Clean the upper intake manifold in solvent.





IMPORTANT: The fuel meter body must be removed from the lower intake manifold prior to cleaning. Do not allow cleaning solvent to contact the fuel meter body.

2. Clean the lower intake manifold in solvent.

CAUTION: Wear safety glasses In order to avoid eye damage.

3. Dry the components with compressed air.





4. Inspect the upper intake manifold for the following:
- Cracks or other damage to the exterior of the manifold
- Cracking or damage in the gasket grooves
- Loose or damaged bolt thread inserts
- Damage to the throttle body mounting surface







INTAKE MANIFOLD ASSEMBLE

NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

1. Install the fuel meter body bracket and bolt.

Tighten
- Tighten the fuel meter body bracket bolt to 10 N.m (88 lb in).

2. Install the fuel meter body into the mounting bracket.
3. Insert the six separate poppet nozzles into their proper lower intake manifold bores.
4. Inspect the poppet nozzles in order to ensure they are firmly seated and locked in the casting socket.





5. Install a NEW upper intake manifold gasket into the groove of the upper intake manifold.
6. Install a NEW fuel meter body gasket into the groove of the upper intake manifold.
7. Install the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold.
8. Install the upper intake manifold bolts and studs.

Tighten
8.1. Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts and studs on the first pass to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
8.2. Tighten the upper intake manifold bolts and studs on the final pass to 10 N.m (88 lb in).





9. Install the fuel pipe, nuts, bolt, 0-ring seals, and grommets.

NOTE: The 0-ring seals and grommets must be installed in the proper order.

Tighten
9.1. Tighten the fuel pipe nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
9.2. Tighten the fuel pipe bolt to 6 N.m (53 lb in).





10. Install the throttle body and a NEW gasket.





11. Install the throttle body studs.

Tighten
- Tighten the throttle body studs to 9 N.m (80 lb in).





12. Install the engine coolant thermostat, water outlet, and studs.

Tighten
- Tighten the water outlet studs to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).





13. Install the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve and gasket.





14. Install the EGR valve bolts.

Tighten
14.1. Tighten the EGR valve bolts on the first pass to 7 N.m (62 lb in).
14.2. Tighten the EGR valve bolts on the final pass to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).





15. Apply sealant to the threads of the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.
16. Install the ECT sensor to the front of the lower intake manifold.

Tighten
- Tighten the ECT sensor to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).





17. Lubricate the grommet of the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor with clean engine oil.
18. Install the MAP sensor.





19. Install the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve and bolts.

Tighten
- Tighten the EVAP canister purge valve bolts to 12 N.m (108 lb in).





20. Install the ignition coil and studs.

Tighten
- Tighten the ignition coil studs to 12 N.m (106 lb in).







EXHAUST MANIFOLD CLEAN AND INSPECT
1. Clean the manifolds in solvent.

CAUTION: Wear safety glasses In order to avoid eye damage.

2. Dry the components with compressed air.
3. Inspect the exhaust manifolds for the following:
- Damage to the gasket sealing surfaces
- Damage to the EGR pipe fitting (if applicable)
- Damage to the take down studs
- Restrictions within the exhaust passages
- Broken or damaged heat shields (if applicable)





4. Measure the alignment or surface flatness of the exhaust manifold flanges using a straight edge and a feeler gauge. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.

NOTE: If the surface flatness is not within specifications, the exhaust manifold is warped and must be replaced.





WATER PUMP CLEAN AND INSPECT
1. Remove the old gasket material from the water pump sealing surfaces.
2. Clean all excess dirt and debris from the water pump housing.
3. Inspect the water pump for the following:
- Gasket sealing surfaces for excessive scratches or gouging
- Restrictions within the internal coolant passages
- Excessive side-to-side play in the pulley shaft
- Leakage at the water outlet housing or rear cover gasket
- Leakage at the water pump vent hole

NOTE: A stain around the vent hole is acceptable. If leakage occurs (dripping) with the engine running and the cooling system pressurized, replace the water pump.








ENGINE BLOCK CLEAN AND INSPECT

Tools Required
- J 8087 Cylinder Bore Checking Gauge

1. Clean all the remaining sealing or gasket material from the sealing surfaces.
2. Boil the cylinder block in caustic solution.
3. Flush the cylinder block with clean water or steam.
4. Clean the cylinder bores.
5. Clean the oil galleries and the passages.
6. Scale the deposits from the coolant passages.
7. After cleaning the engine block, spray or wipe the cylinder bores and the machined surfaces with clean engine oil.
8. Inspect the following areas:
- Core plug bores for damage
- Valve lifter bores for excessive scoring or wear
- Block for cracks or damage
- Cylinder walls for scratches or gouging
- Coolant jackets for cracks
- Crankshaft bearing webs for cracks
- Engine mount bosses for damage
- Crankshaft bearing bores for damage
- Crankshaft bearing caps for damage
- Threaded holes for damage
- The crankshaft bearing bores should be round and uniform when measuring the inside diameter (ID).
- The surface where the crankshaft bearings contact the crankshaft bearing bore should be smooth.
- If a crankshaft bearing cap is damaged and requires replacement, replace the crankshaft bearing cap, and check the bearings for proper clearances.
9. Measure the cylinder bore for taper and out-of-round.
9.1. Depress the plunger on the J8087 7 mm (0.275 in) or until the J 8087 enters the cylinder bore.
9.2. Center the J 8087 in the cylinder bore and turn the indicator dial to zero.
9.3. Move the J 8087 up and down the cylinder bore to determine the taper. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.
9.4. Turn the J 8087 to different points around the cylinder bore to determine the out-of-round condition. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications.





CYLINDER BORING AND HONING CYLINDER HONING
1. When honing the cylinders, follow the manufacturer's recommendations for equipment use, cleaning and lubrication. Use only clean, sharp stones of the proper grade for the amount of material you remove. Dull, dirty stones cut unevenly and generate excessive heat. Do not hone to a final grade with a coarse or medium-grade stone. Leave sufficient metal so that all stone marks may be removed with fine grade stones. Perform final honing with a fine-grade stone and hone the cylinder in a cross hatch pattern at 45 to 65 degrees to obtain the proper clearance.
2. During the honing operation, thoroughly check the cylinder bore. Repeatedly check the cylinder bore fit with the selected piston.

NOTE: All measurements of the piston or cylinder bore should be made with the components at normal room temperature.

3. When honing to eliminate taper in the cylinder, make full strokes the complete length of the bore. Repeatedly check the measurement at the top, middle, and the bottom of the bore.
4. The finish marks should be clean but not sharp. The finish marks should be free from imbedded particles or torn or folded metal.
5. By measuring the selected piston at the sizing point and by adding the average of the clearance specification, you can determine the final cylinder honing dimension required.
6. When finished, the reconditioned cylinder bores should have less than or meet the specified out-of-round and taper requirements.
7. After final honing and before the piston is checked for fit, clean the cylinder bore with hot water and detergent. Scrub the bores with a stiff bristle brush and rinse the bores thorough with hot water. Do not allow any abrasive material to remain in the cylinder bores. This abrasive material may cause premature wear of the new piston rings and the cylinder bores. Abrasive material will also contaminate the engine oil and may cause premature wear of the bearings. After washing the cylinder bore, dry the bore with a clean rag.
8. Perform final measurements of the piston and cylinder bore.
9. Permanently mark the top of the piston for the specified cylinder to which it has been fitted.
10. Apply clean engine oil to each cylinder bore in order to prevent rusting.





BORING PROCEDURE
1. Before you start the honing or reboring operation, measure all new pistons with the micrometer contacting at points exactly 90 degrees from the piston pin centerline.
2. Before you use any type of boring bar, file the top of the cylinder block in order to remove any dirt or burrs. If you do not check the cylinder block, the boring bar may be tilted, this could result in the rebored cylinder wall being at incorrect angles to the crankshaft.
3. Carefully follow the instructions furnished by the manufacturer regarding use of equipment.
4. When you rebore cylinders, make sure all crankshaft bearing caps are in place. Tighten the bearing caps to the proper torque in order to avoid distortion of the bores in the final assembly. The crankshaft must be clear of the boring cutter when you bore each cylinder.
5. When you take the final cut with a boring bar, leave 0.03 mm (0.001 in) on the diameter for finish honing. This gives the required position to the cylinder clearance specifications. (Carefully perform the honing and boring operation in order to maintain the specified clearances between pistons, rings, and cylinder bores).