Rear Axle
DIAGNOSISMany noises that seem to come from the rear axle actually originate from other sources such as tires, road surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level, and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa (50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle nose usually stops when coasting at speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by noting if the noise changes with various speeds or sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire noise remains constant and is more pronounced at speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise which may be confused with rear axle noise; however, front wheel bearing noise does not change when comparing drive and coast. Light application of the brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod loosened or metal-to-metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal-to-metal contact between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make any necessary repairs.
GEAR NOISE
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55 mph) under four driving conditions.
1. In drive under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from driving the engine while the vehicle slows down gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and 89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
BEARING NOISE
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise. Bearing noise frequently "wow-wows" at bearing rpm, indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
REAR WHEEL BEARING NOISE
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while coasting at low speed with transmission in the neutral. Noise may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels, spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs. Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
KNOCK AT LOW SPEEDS
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and side gears as required.
BACKLASH CLUNK
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage, excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace as required. Select close-fitting parts when possible. Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.
REAR AXLE NOISE
LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL