Overhaul

Engine Assembly, Overhaul

- Remove the engine and transmission unit.

- Remove the transmission unit from the engine.

- Fit the engine to a stand.

- Place a drain tray below the cylinder block drain plug and drain any remaining coolant from the engine.

- Overhaul the cylinder head.

- Remove the oil pan.

- Remove the oil pump.

- Remove the windage trays.

- Clean all components, check for damage and wear and renew as required.

- Remove the rear oil seal housing.

- Remove the timing cover assembly.

- Remove the pedestal bolts and tab washer.




- Remove the pedestal / tensioner assembly and damper. Slacken off the oil pump drive chain damper securing bolts and move the damper clear of the chain. Push back the lock tabs (1 Fig. 1) and remove the securing bolts (2 Fig. 1) from the oil pump drive sprocket (3 Fig. 1).

- Remove the drive sprocket and shim pack.

- Remove the oil pump drive chain (5 Fig. 1), remove the elastic band from the upper dampers and remove the upper timing chain.

- Remove the lower tensioner securing bolts and remove the tensioner.

- Push back the lower chain fixed damper securing bolt lock tabs and remove the bolts.

- Remove the damper and tab washer.

- Repeat for the remaining fixed and pivot dampers and remove the lower chain and intermediate sprocket.

- Remove the crankshaft pulley spacer and the crankshaft pulley woodruff key.

- Remove the drive sprockets and woodruff keys from the crankshaft.

- Check all drive sprockets for wear, distortion and damaged teeth. Renew as required.

- Remove the power assisted steering pump assembly and reposition away from the timing cover area.

- Renew the auxiliary shaft.

- Renew the auxiliary shaft bushes.

- Remove the oil pump drive chain damper.

- Remove the spacers from behind the damper.

- Remove the pistons and connecting rods and renew.




- Refit the connecting rod bearing shells to one connecting rod and cap and fit the rod to the crankshaft. Torque tighten the nuts and check the side clearance between the end face of the rod and the journal shoulder (Fig. 2) - see Service Data under Engine Specifications.

- Remove the connecting rod from the crankshaft.

- Repeat for the remaining five connecting rods.

CAUTION: The connecting rod bearing nuts, bolts and main bearing securing bolts MUST be renewed during assembly and torqued tightened as described under Engine, Service and Repair, Service Procedures, SPS Joint Control System.

- Ensuring that the main bearing caps are marked relative to the cylinder block, remove the main bearing cap bolts and remove the caps. Carefully lift out the crankshaft.

- Place the crankshaft on suitable blocks on a bench. Remove and discard the bearing shells and the thrust washers. Clean the cylinder block, crankshaft and bearing caps.

- Check the crankshaft journals for wear and ovality, for tolerances see Service Data in the Preliminary Pages.

- If any of the dimensions are outside the stated tolerances, then the crankshaft must be renewed.




- Fit suitable bolts to the oil gallery plugs and pull to remove (Fig. 1). Check all cylinder block oil galleries for cracks and blockages. Fit new `O' rings to the oil gallery plugs, lubricate the `O' rings and fit the plugs to the cylinder block oil galleries.

- Check all bearing housings for cracks, distortion and any signs of bearing movement, i.e. scoring or overheating, renew as necessary.

- Check the cylinder block/cylinder head mating surface for warping, bowing and cracks.







- Check the bore wear in the cylinder block with a suitable comparator (Fig. 2). This must be done in at least six positions in the bore (Fig. 3).

Note: Maximum bore wear normally occurs towards the top of the bore, across its thrust axis.

Note: If standard size replacement pistons are being fitted, they must be the same grade as the markings on the cylinder block.


Note: If new piston rings are being fitted without reboring, de-glaze the cylinder bores using a hone or glaze buster. This operation will not increase the size of the bores and will give the bores a cross-hatched finish.




- Insert each new piston ring into the cylinder bore, (1 Fig. 1) ensuring they are square in the cylinders and check the gap using a strip gauge (2 Fig. 1).

- If the gap is insufficient, then a small flat file or carborundum stone can be used on the butting ends of the ring. Ensure that after filing no burrs remain.

Note: Ensure that the rings are not inter-mixed after they have been gapped and that each piston I ring assembly is matched to its respective bore.

- Measure the piston skirt clearance using a long strip gauge. Insert the strip gauge down the right-hand side of the cylinder bore, insert the correct piston INVERTED into the bore (with the piston pin parallel to the axis of the crankshaft).

- Push the piston down the cylinder until it reaches its tightest point in the bore. At this point, withdraw the strip gauge; a steady resistance should be felt.

- If the tolerances are outside those given in Service Data under Engine Specifications, the pistons must be renewed as a complete set.

- Fit the new main bearing shell halves to the cylinder block and lubricate with clean engine oil.

- Clean and polish the crankshaft journals (remove any scratches with lapping tape, polishing in an anti-clockwise direction ONLY, against the crankshaft rotation), lubricate with clean engine oil and carefully assemble the crankshaft into the cylinder block.




- Fit the thrust washers ensuring that the grooved bearing face contacts the crankshaft (1 Fig. 2).

- Check the crankshaft rotates freely.

- Fit the remaining new bearing shell halves into the main bearing caps.

- Lubricate with clean engine oil.

- Fit the caps to the cylinder block.

- Start off the securing bolts (approximately 2 or 3 turns) and very gently tap the main bearing caps to ensure they are seated on the cylinder block.

- Check the crankshaft still rotates freely.

- Pull down each bearing cap individually and torque tighten the bolts.

- Check the crankshaft still rotates freely after pulling down each bearing cap.

- Check the crankshaft end-float.

- Fit new woodruff keys to the crankshaft, never re-use old ones.

- Fit the timing and oil pump sprockets to the crankshaft.







- Check the connecting rods for parallelism, twist and bend, using a suitable measuring jig (Figs. 3 and 4).

- If any connecting rod is unusable, then the complete set must be renewed.

- Lubricate the small end bush, slide the piston pin through the piston and connecting rod.

Note: Pistons are marked `FRONT'. Ensure that the marking faces the front of the engine.

- Secure with new snap-rings, never re-use old ones.




- Fit the rings to the pistons ensuring that gaps are positioned as shown in Fig. 1.




- Lubricate and compress the rings using Service Tool 18G 55A (Fig. 2).

- Insert the piston skirt into the bore and using a suitable implement such as a wooden hammer shaft, gently tap the piston into the cylinder bore.

- Ensure that the connecting rod does not foul either the cylinder block or camshaft.

- Lubricate (using clean engine oil) and fit the bearing shells to the connecting rod and the connecting rod bearing cap. Fit the rod to the crankshaft, and fit the connecting rod bearing cap to the connecting rod.

CAUTION: The connecting rod bearing nuts and bolts MUST be renewed during assembly and torque tightened as described under Engine, Service and Repair, Service Procedures, SPS Joint Control System.

- Fit and tighten the connecting rod bearing nuts.

- Repeat the operation for the remaining pistons.

- Ensure crankshaft rotation during assembly.

- Clean and fit the windage trays. Fit and tighten the securing bolts.

- Remove the oil pump and overhaul. Refit when serviceable.

- Lubricate the lower timing chain. Fit the chain to the intermediate sprocket, fit the chain to the lower sprocket and then assemble the intermediate sprocket and chain to the cylinder block.

- Should the intermediate sprocket be worn or damaged, the assembly must be renewed.

- Fit the spacers to the lower pivoting damper and fit the assembly to the cylinder block.

- Fit the tab washer and securing bolts.

- Tighten the bolts and lock over the tabs.

- Renew the lower tensioner assembly.




- Fit a dial gauge to the top of the cylinder block and turn the engine over until No.1 piston is at TDC (Fig. 3).

- Lubricate the upper chain with clean engine oil and fit to the intermediate sprocket.

- Fit an elastic band around the upper dampers to secure the chain.

- Renew the crankshaft front oil seal.

- Refit the timing cover.

- Lubricate and fit the oil seal distance spacer. Fit and seat the crankshaft pulley woodruff key.

- Renew the rear housing oil seal.

- Refit the oil pan.

- Refit the cylinder head.

- Remove the engine from the stand.

- Refit the transmission unit to the engine.

- Refit the engine/transmission unit to the vehicle.