Removal and Replacement

Crankshaft, Main And Big-End Bearings

Big-end bearings - remove
1. Remove sump.







2. Remove nut and washers securing oil pick-up pipe to stud.







3. Remove 2 bolts securing oil pick-up pipe to oil pump cover, withdraw pipe from cover; remove and discard 'O' ring.
4. Remove oil pick-up pipe, recover spacer from stud.
5. Suitably identify bearing caps to their respective connecting rods.







6. Remove 2 bolts securing each bearing cap.
7. Remove bearing cap and bearing shell.

NOTE: Keep bearing caps and bolts in their fitted order.

8. Push each piston up its respective bore and remove shells from connecting rods.

NOTE: Big-end bearing shells must be replaced whenever they are removed.

Big-end bearings - refit
1. Fit bearing shells to each connecting rod.

NOTE: Big-end bearings are available in 0.254 mm (0.01 in) and 0.508 mm (0.02 in) oversizes.

2. Lubricate bearing shells and crankshaft journals with engine oil.
3. Pull connecting rods on to crankshaft journals.
4. Fit bearing shells to each big-end bearing cap.

NOTE: If crankshaft has been reground, ensure appropriate oversize bearing shells are fitted.







5. Lubricate bearing shells and fit bearing caps ensuring reference marks on connecting rods and bearing caps are aligned.

NOTE: Rib on edge of bearing cap must face towards front of engine on RH bank of cylinders and towards rear on LH bank of cylinders.

6. Fit bearing cap bolts and tighten to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) then a further 80 degrees.
7. Check connecting rods move freely sideways on crankshaft. Tightness indicates insufficient bearing clearance or misaligned connecting rod.







8. Check clearance between connecting rods on each crankshaft journal.
Connecting rod clearance = 0.15 to 0.36 mm (0.006 to 0.014 in).

9. Clean oil strainer and oil pick-up pipe.
10. Smear a new 'O' ring with engine oil and fit to oil pick-up pipe.
11. Position oil pick-up pipe spacer on number 4 main bearing cap stud.
12. Fit oil pick-up pipe ensuring that end of pipe is correctly inserted in oil pump body.
13. Fit oil pick-up pipe to oil pump body bolts and tighten to 8 Nm (6 ft. lbs.).
14. Fit washers and nut securing oil pick-up pipe to stud; tighten nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
15. Fit sump.

Crankshaft - remove
1. Remove flywheel or drive plate and ring gear assembly.
2. Remove timing cover.
3. Remove timing gears.
4. Remove big-end bearings.







5. Make suitable reference marks between each main bearing cap and cylinder block.
6. Starting at centre main bearing and working outwards, progressively slacken then remove 10 main bearing cap bolts.

CAUTION: Keep bolts in their fitted order.

7. Starting at centre main bearing and working outwards, progressively slacken then remove 5 LH side hexagonal head bolts and 4 RH side hexagonal head bolts and one socket head cap bolt; remove and discard Dowty washers.
8. Remove 5 main bearing caps, remove and discard bearing shells.

NOTE: Number 4 main bearing cap is drilled to accommodate oil pick-up pipe stud.

9. Lift out crankshaft; remove and discard rear oil seal.
10. Remove and discard 5 bearing shells from cylinder block.

CAUTION: Main bearing shells must be replaced whenever they are removed.

11. Remove and discard side seals from rear main bearing cap.
12. Remove all traces of sealant from bearing cap and cylinder block.
13. Remove Woodruff key from crankshaft.

Knock sensor - remove







1. Remove knock sensor from cylinder block.

Crankshaft position sensor - remove







1. Remove 2 bolts securing crankshaft position sensor to gearbox adaptor plate, remove sensor; collect spacer - if fitted.

Crankshaft - inspection
1. Clean crankshaft and blow out oil passages.







2. Support crankshaft front and rear bearing journals on vee blocks, and using a DTI, measure run-out on centre main bearing. Maximum permitted run-out = 0.08 mm (0.003 in).
If run-out exceeds permitted maximum, crankshaft is unsuitable for regrinding and should be replaced.







3. Measure each journal for overall wear and ovality, take 3 measurements at 120 ° intervals at each end and centre of journals.
Main bearing journal diameter = 63.487 to 63.500 mm (2.499 to 2.52 in)
Maximum out of round = 0.040 mm (0.002 in).
Big-end bearing journal diameter = 55.500 to 55.513 mm (2.20 to 2.22 in)
Maximum out of round = 0.040 mm (0.002 in).
If measurements exceed permitted maximum, regrind or fit new crankshaft.

NOTE: Ovality checks should be made at 120 ° intervals around each journal. Crankshaft main and big-end bearings are available in 0.254 mm (0.01 in) and 0.508 mm (0.02 in) oversizes.

Crankshaft dimensions:







Bearing journal radius - all journals except rear main journal A = 1.90 to 2.28 mm (0.075 to 0.09 in). Rear main bearing journal radius B = 3.04 mm (0.12 in).
Bearing journal diameter C:
Standard = 63.487 to 63.500 mm (2.499 to 2.52 in).
0.254 mm (0.01 in) undersize = 63.233 to 63.246 mm (2.511 to 2.512 in).
0.508 mm (0.02 in) undersize = 62.979 to 62.992 mm (2.509 to 2.510 in).

Bearing journal width D:
Standard = 26.975 to 27.026 mm (1.061 to 1.064 in).

Bearing journal diameter E:
Standard = 55.500 to 55.513 mm (2.20 to 2.22 in).
0.254 mm (0.01 in) undersize = 55.246 to 55.259 mm (2.17 to 2.18 in).
0.508 mm (0.02 in) undersize = 54.992 to 55.005 mm (2.16 to 2.165 in).

CAUTION: if crankshaft is to be replaced, ensure replacement is correct for engine being overhauled. Crankshafts are not interchangeable between 4.0 and 4.6 litre engines.

1. Check crankshaft spigot bearing for wear, renew if necessary.

Crankshaft spigot bearing - renew
1. Carefully extract old spigot bearing.
2. Clean bearing recess in crankshaft.







3. Fit new bearing flush with, or to a maximum of 1.6 mm (0.06 in) below end face of crankshaft.
4. Ream bearing to correct inside diameter. Spigot bearing inside diameter = 19.177 + 0.025 - 0.000 mm (0.75 + 0.001 - 0.000 in).
5. Remove all traces of swarf.

Crankshaft - refit
1. Clean main bearing caps, bearing shell recesses and mating surfaces of cylinder block.

CAUTION: Ensure bolt holes in cylinder block and main bearing caps are clean and dry.







2. Fit new upper main bearing shells, with oil holes and grooves, in cylinder block, ensuring flanged shell is fitted in centre position.

NOTE: If crankshaft has been reground ensure appropriate oversize bearing shells are fitted.

3. Lubricate main bearing shells with engine oil and position crankshaft in cylinder block.
4. Fit new main bearing shells to bearing caps.
5. Lubricate main bearing shells with engine oil.
6. Fit numbers 1 to 4 main bearing caps ensuring that reference marks made during dismantling are aligned, fit and tighten main bearing cap bolts to 5 Nm (4 ft. lbs.).

NOTE: Do not fit side bolts at this stage.







7. Fit side seals to rear main bearing cap.

CAUTION: Seals must protrude approximately 1.5 mm (0.05 in) above bearing cap face.

8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) wide bead of Hylomar PL32 jointing compound to bearing cap rear mating face on cylinder block.

CAUTION: Ensure sealant does not enter bolt holes.

9. Lubricate rear main bearing shell and side seals with engine oil, carefully fit rear main bearing cap assembly; fit and tighten main bearing cap bolts to 5 Nm (4 ft. lbs.).

CAUTION: Ensure that engine oil does not enter side bolt holes in bearing cap.

10. Smear new Dowty washers with engine oil and fit to main bearing cap side bolts.
11. Fit and tighten RH then LH side bolts to 5 Nm (4 ft. lbs.) ensuring that socket head cap bolt is fitted to rear main bearing cap on RH side of cylinder block adjacent to starter motor aperture.







12. Using sequence shown, tighten bolts to:
Stage 1 - Initial torque
Main bearing cap bolts - 13.5 Nm (10 ft. lbs.)
Main bearing cap side bolts - 13.5 Nm (10 ft. lbs.)

Stage 2 - Final torque
Main bearing cap bolts numbers 1 to 8 - 72 Nm (53 ft. lbs.)
Main bearing cap bolts numbers 9 and 10 - 92 Nm (68 ft. lbs.)
Main bearing cap side bolts 11 to 20 - 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.)

13. Trim off excess material from rear main bearing cap side seals.
14. Clean seal location and running surface on crankshaft.
15. Clean seal protector LRT-12-095 and lubricate with engine oil.
16. Lubricate oil seal lip with engine oil.







17. Position seal protector LRT-12-095 to crankshaft.
18. Fit seal using tool LRT-12-091.
19. Fit Woodruff key to crankshaft.
20. Check crankshaft end-float.

NOTE: If 0.508 mm (0.02 in) oversize main bearings have been fitted, it may be necessary to machine thrust faces of crankshaft centre main bearing location to achieve correct end-float. Ensure an equal amount of material is removed from each thrust face.

21. Fit big-end bearings.
22. Fit timing cover and gears.
23. Fit flywheel or drive plate and ring gear assembly.
24. Fit sump.

Crankshaft end - float - check







1. Set-up DTI to measure end float.
2. Move crankshaft forwards and zero gauge.
3. Move crankshaft rearwards, record end-float reading obtained.
Crankshaft end-float = 0.10 to 0.20 mm (0.004 to 0.008 in).

4. Remove DTI.

NOTE: Crankshaft end-float is controlled by thrust faces on upper half of centre main bearing shell. If crankshaft has been reground and 0.508 mm (0.02 in) oversize main bearing shells are to be fitted, it may be necessary to machine thrust faces of crankshaft centre main bearing journal to achieve correct end-float. Ensure an equal amount of material is removed from each thrust face.

Knock sensor - refit
1. Clean threads of knock sensor and mating threads in cylinder block.
2. Fit knock sensor and tighten to 16 Nm (12 ft. lbs.).

CAUTION: Do not apply any type of sealant to threads.

Crankshaft position sensor - refit
1. Position crankshaft position sensor and spacer - if fitted to gearbox adaptor plate, fit bolts and tighten to 6 Nm (4 ft. lbs.).