Paint - Cosmetic Damage From Airborn Materials
89Ford21PAINT COSMETIC DAMAGE FROM AIRBORN MATERIALS
Article No. 89-13-3
FORD: 1989 and prior ALL FORD LINES
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1989 and prior ALL LINCOLN-MERCURY LINES
LIGHT TRUCK: 1989 and prior ALL LIGHT TRUCK LINES
ISSUE: Paint may be damaged from various sources of airborn materials. The two different types are:
^ Inorganic
^ Organic
Sometimes it is hard to identify the type of paint damage and know how to remove it. This TSB article gives detailed information and descriptions of both types of airborn materials. It also outlines the service procedures for treating them.
ACTION: If service is required, identify the source of damage involved by referring to the following information. Use the following recommended service procedure to correct concerns.
INORGANIC AIRBORN MATERIAL
The effects of inorganic airborn materials can be seen as:
^ Dark blotches in the paint where the pigment in the paint surface has been attacked
^ Irregular spots that are cracked or etched around the edges and dull in the centers.
^ Small orange colored spots caused by iron particles may appear on the paint surface.
Generally, materials that attack a paint film are either acidic or alkaline in nature.
Sulfuric and nitric acids, in general, cause extreme damage to automative paint finishes. Even very small concentrations of the same materials can cause chemical spotting damage. Due to evaporation and condensation, these acids can create severe etching "spots" that may eventually crack or lift the paint film after some time in service.
Although some automotive finishes are more resistant than others, none are completely immune to these chemicals. The most resistant paints used today are the urethanes because their resin system is least likely to react with chemicals. Air dry coatings are more susceptible to attack only when they are fresh. The longer the paint dries the more resistant it becomes.
Metallic colors are more intolerant to chemicals because aluminum flake is fairly reactive with either an acid or alkali. The following chart contains the most common acid materials found on automotive finishes. The chart shows a color, the corresponding damage appearance and also the chemical causal agent. It is not applicable for Basecoat/Clearcoat finishes.
* "Caustic" refers to any alkaline substance that may be "harsh" or "corrosive" depending on strength or concentration.
The following "pH" chart show the relationship between acidic and alkaline chemicals and their corresponding pH values. This chart is provided for informational reference only.
ORGANIC AIRBORN MATERIALS
Organic damage is generally easier to identify. Organic damage is mostly due to tree sap, bird and insect droppings, dead insects (Figure 8) and pollen. Tree sap is easily identified by clear raised drops that may be hard or sticky. Bee or bug dropping spots may appear brownish or yellow in color, about an eighth to a quarter inch in diameter. Dead and decomposing insect bodies are readily visible to the eye. Pollen deposits are small yellow clusters. Each of these items is potentially damaging to any currently available paint system. Other noticeable traits of organic damage are spots that are raised (swelling) micro-crazing (cracked) and pitting, due to pollen eating into the paint film. The active ingredients in most organic contaminants are tannic and formic acids . These acids are found in berries and bodily fluids of insects and birds.
Investigations completed at dealerships show that the bright lot lights tend to attract insects. The use of "soft lights" for display and storage lot illumination will help reduce damage resulting from decomposing bugs and droppings by decreasing the number of bugs attracted to these lights. Organic damage is accelerated by heat. During very hot weather conditions, it is important to wash vehicles more often.
ORGANIC AND INORGANIC REPAIR PROCEDURES FOR MILD DAMAGE
Iron dust particles may imbed themselves into the paint film. On some light colored vehicles after some weathering, tiny dots of rust start to appear. They feel rough to the touch and are difficult to remove. The best way to remove these particles is by treating the finish with an oxalic acid-detergent-water wash. Use the following procedure to perform this service repair.
NOTE: OXALIC ACID WASH IS ALSO PRE-PACKAGED IN VARIOUS STRENGTHS UNDER VARIOUS BRAND NAMES, IF YOU CHOOSE NOT TO MIX YOUR OWN BATCHES.
1. Wash and degrease the vehicle first, using Ford Multi Purpose Cleaner (B8A-19523-B) or equivalent, and a suitable wax and grease remover. If this does not remove all of the iron particles, proceed with the oxalic acid wash.
2. Prepare a quantity of oxalic acid-detergent-water solution as follows:
a. Dissolve 6-8 ounces of Oxalic Acid (powder) in one gallon of warm water.
b. Add 1-2 tablespoons full of non-alkaline detergent such as Ford Multi Purpose Cleaner.
3. Apply this solution liberally to all affected surfaces of the vehicle with a large sponge. Keep the surface wet until the technician can no longer feel any surface roughness with bare or gloved fingertips.
NOTE: IF THIS IS NOT DONE THOROUGHLY, STAINING MAY REDEVELOP IF IRON PARTICLES ARE LEFT BEHIND.
4. Rinse the area with clean water.
CAUTION: FAILURE TO THOROUGHLY RINSE THIS SURFACE COULD RESULT IN CORROSION OF ANODIZED ALUMINUM OR STAINLESS STEEL PARTS WITH PROLONGED CONTACT.
5. If the iron particles are not totally removed after 2 washings, use one or both of the procedures listed for minor chemical contamination.
NOTE: THE USE OF POLISHING (WITH WAX), SANDING WITH MICRO FINE SANDPAPER (1500 GRIT OR GREATER) OR BUFFING WITH VERY LIGHT COMPOUND SHOULD ONLY BE DONE AS A LAST RESORT.
CHEMICAL CONTAMINATION
Chemical contamination, either acid or alkali, can cause off-color spots and crack the paint film. In the presence of moisture (dew), sulfur contamination will change the color (light/dark) of the paint pigments. (This does not apply to Basecoat/Clearcoat)
Since this contamination affects the pigments, lacquers and enamels show no difference in resistance. Production thermal drying and air drying finishes are likely to be spotted.
Minor chemical contamination can be removed by using the following step by step procedure.
1. Wash the vehicle first by using Ford Multi Purpose Cleaner (B8A-19523-B) or equivalent to remove the exterior foreign materials.
2. If the spotting is extensive and on the horizontal surfaces, then machine polish.
3. Apply a light grit polishing compound to the affected surface by using a soft brush. The compound should be applied to a small area at a time so that it can be buffed out while still wet to get maximum cutting efficiency.
4. Polish off the spots using a buffer operating at 1700-1800 rpm. Confine polishing to the spotted areas. Repeat as necessary until all spots have been removed.
5. Remove spots on curved surfaces, near edges, and next to mouldings or ornaments by hand polishing as follows:
a. Apply some polishing compound to a cotton cloth. (Do not use a synthetic cloth.)
b. Rub vigorously until the spots are no longer visible.
c. Clean off excess polishing compound by using a clean cloth and compressed air.
6. Buff out the polishing marks and bring up the gloss by using a buffer equipped with a clean, dry lambs wool pad.
NOTE: IF POLISHING DOES NOT SUFFICIENTLY REMOVE DAMAGE, THE VEHICLE CAN BE WET SANDED USING 1500 GRIT SANDPAPER AND THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE
Wet Sanding Procedure
1. Clean the exterior surface of the vehicle with Ford Multi Purpose cleaner or an equivalent to remove all contamination.
2. Apply 1500 grit sandpaper to a rubber padded sanding block to sand the paint surface.
3. Use a squirt bottle filled with water to lubricate the 1500 grit sandpaper as you begin to sand only the damaged areas. Water is an abrasive as well as a lubricant in this step.
NOTE: IF THE DAMAGE HAS GONE DEEPLY INTO THE PAINT FILM AND IT WILL NOT POLISH OR SAND OUT, THEN REFINISHING IS REQUIRED.
ORGANIC MATERIAL REPAIR PROCEDURE FOR MILD DAMAGE
Minor organic damage can be removed by using the following step by step procedure.
1. Wash and degrease the vehicle thoroughly by using Ford Multi Purpose Cleaner (B8A-19523-B) or equivalent and a wax and grease remover to remove all organics.
2. Inspect the vehicle horizontal surfaces. If spotting or paint film swelling is extensive, use a buffer to repair.
3. Apply a light grit polishing compound to the affected areas by using a soft brush. The compound should be applied to a small area at a time so that it can be buffed out while still wet to get maximum efficiency.
4. Polish off the spots or swelling marks using a buffer that operates between 1700-1800 rpm. Polishing should be confined to the affected areas only. Repeat as necessary until all spots or marks are removed.
5. Remove spots on curved surfaces, near edges, and next to mouldings or ornaments by hand polishing as follows:
a. Apply some polishing compound to a cotton cloth. (Do not use a synthetic cloth.)
b. Rub vigorously until the spots are no longer visible.
c. Clean off excess polishing compound by using a clean cloth and compressed air.
6. Buff out the polishing marks and bring up the gloss by using a buffer equipped with a clean, dry lambs wool pad.
NOTE: IF POLISHING DOES NOT SUFFICIENTLY REMOVE DAMAGE, THE VEHICLE CAN BE WET SANDED USING 1500 GRIT SANDPAPER AND THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE.
Wet Sanding Procedure
1. Clean the exterior surface of the vehicle with Ford Multi Purpose cleaner or an equivalent to remove all organics.
2. Apply 1500 grit sandpaper to a rubber padded sanding block to sand the paint surface.
3. Use a squirt bottle filled with water to lubricate the 1500 grit sandpaper as you begin to sand only the damaged areas. Water is an abrasive as well as a lubricant in this step.
NOTE: IF THE DAMAGE HAS GONE DEEPLY INTO THE PAINT FILM AND IT WILL NOT POLISH OUT, THEN REFINISHING IS REQUIRED.
PAINT RECONDITIONING PROCEDURES FOR SEVERE DAMAGE
Acrylic enamel single stage or base/clear paint systems should be painted by using the following procedure.
1. .Wash the vehicle with Ford Multi Purpose Cleaner or equivalent to remove all organic materials.
2. Wash the areas to be painted with wax and grease remover.
3. Prepare the area as follows:
a. Neutralize the affected areas with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and water.
b. Rinse the surface off with plain water.
c. Wash the panel with a mild soapy detergent.
d. Dry the panel completely.
NOTE: IF THE DAMAGE IS THROUGH THE TOP COAT FINISH AND INTO THE PRIMERS, THE PANEL MUST BE SANDED DOWN TO BARE METAL OR PLASTIC AND THEN REFINISHED.
4. Apply a self-etching primer for metal surfaces only.
NOTE: A FLEX ADDITIVE MAY BE NECESSARY WHEN WORKING WITH FLEXIBLE PLASTICS
Then proceed as follows:
a. Let dry per instructions.
b. Apply a two component urethane primer surfacer.
c. Sand the surface with 400 grit sandpaper to get to proper finish.
d. Finish sanding with 600 grit sandpaper.
5. Solvent wash panel with wax and grease remover. Then, tack wipe it.
6. Apply base coat or top coat material per applicable paint system.
NOTE: THE USE OF ACRYLIC URETHANE ENAMEL IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR THIS TYPE OF REPAIR.
7. Apply clear acrylic urethane if you are using a base/clear paint system.
WAYS TO MINIMIZE EFFECTS OF AIRBORN MATERIAL DAMAGE
During the past year, Ford Motor Company and major paint suppliers have participated in a survey to analyze the effects of airborn materials. This survey was conducted on foreign and domestic vehicles. It resulted in the following interesting conclusions.
1. Keeping the vehicles clean, washing frequently with de-ionized water and drying by hand or mechanical means will help minimize the effects of inorganic and organic materials.
2. Spray washing without rubbing will not totally remove all residue on the surface of the vehicle. Damage could possibly occur over a longer period of time.
3. Care should be taken to not allow any painted vehicle surface to become wet in direct sunlight. (A sprinkler system can cause damage if the vehicles are not dried.) Possible alkaline water or mineral deposit may be the cause.
4. The use of "Soft Lights" for lighting around storage lots and showing areas will minimize the attraction of insects and the possibility of organic damage.
5. Ford Motor Company is piloting a program for a transit/storage coating to be applied on the horizontal surfaces of all vehicles. These coatings have shown good protection to the paint surface. They are clear in color and should be left on the vehicles until they are sold.
6. We are testing many "permanent paint sealants" used by dealers. Until all testing is completed, we cannot give any recommendations for what products to use. Testing has shown that a sealant that allows water to bead up on the vehicle does not help to dissipate the materials on the paint surface. Sheeting of water on the vehicle is highly desirable.
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: None
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 1100